I was looking forward to a great fish and chip lunch and the cosy decor of the restaurant made me feel at home straight away and even more filled with anticipation. This was clearly an interesting place - you can get your classic fish and chip meal (which is why I had turned up there) but the menu also reflects what I assume is the proprietor's keen interest in his work and business since there was also on offer a range of fish dishes which have a particular emphasis on sustainable fish and something else a little different from straightforward cod and chips (mackeral sandwich, ling goujons, moules mariniere). There was a card which informed diners of an upcoming taster night where punters could try fish dishes which they may not have tried before including a chowder and items not necessarily associated with a fish and chip restaurant, rather you may find them in an upmarket fish establishment. The problem was that I had come wanting to enjoy a nice plate, if not a great plate, of cod and chips. A modest wish really and, in the presence of all this sustainability and a lurch in the direction of something a little more sophisticated, one that made feel slightly guilty about my menu choice - plain fried cod and chips with mushy peas. Anyway I stuck to my guns and I was rapidly presented with what certainly looked like an appetising plate of fish and chips with a lovely-looking light batter with a ramikin of mushy peas. Things did not start well. When I started to eat it, the fish appeared to me to be undercooked so much so that I felt I had to take it back to the counter. This was not a problem, a fresh piece was cooked for me and was perfect the second time round and it appeared that the undercooked fish was a one-off event since all the other lunchers were clearly enjoying their meals. The chips were fine though not spectacular (for those who raise the question of the existence of spectacular chips, I assure you that they do exist and possibly one may expect to encounter them in a slightly pricey fish and chip restaurant such as The Atlantic), My mushy peas, too, were not the greatest I've had - not terribly tasty and, well, not that mushy either. The meal, in short, was thoroughly edible but, sadly, not fantastic and I left with the feeling that The Atlantic is more worthy than great. Perhaps the owners need to decide what they are doing with the restaurant - my own feeling is that if it looks like a fish and chip restaurant, and it walks like a fish and chip restaurant, and it quacks like a fish and chip restaurant then...it is a fish and chip restaurant and perhaps the proprietors need to concentrate on producing great fish and chips first and foremost before straying off to areas more adventurous. This just does not seem to be quite the setting for more esoteric dishes. There's nothing wrong with a great plate of fish and chips - in fact it still is a great crowd-pleaser.
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