Cowdray House, a palace built for a Tudor nobleman in the 1520’s, is often just referred to these days as Cowdray Castle. It suffered a tragic fire in 1793. Everything except the hugely robust kitchen tower was destroyed. The Conduit House – an out-building – also survived the fire. It was the failure to find the key to the Conduit House where the water supply and fire-fighting equipment were held which resulted in the fire running totally out of control.
The young owner and a friend on holiday in Switzerland died in a madcap attempt to ‘raft’ the River Rhine’s Schaffheusen Falls the very same week the castle burnt down. The result was chaos and tragedy. The castle was looted of its treasures and rare, historic documents left scattered about, some being picked up and removed by the public.
The Cowdray records were consequently lost to later generations.
Cowdray Castle is imbued with mystery and mystique, and the story of the monk’s curse of death by fire and water continues to intrigue visitors to this day.
Cowdray has always attracted artists: Turner and Constable both painted here as have numerous other lesser-known painters. Photographers both professional and amateur love the grandeur of the Ruins, the beautiful park setting and the serpentine River Rother.
For ‘heavy’ history buffs eager for cannons, real battlements and Stygian dungeons and armed with a guide book and tick-box mentality this is not your castle – you’ll be disappointed. However, history-lite visitors who relish a ‘good story’, enjoy panoramic pastoral views across the estate, get joy perhaps from watching the simple act of a dog fetching sticks in the river, like passing the day with others in a relaxed celebration of the timeless beauty and charm of the old Tudor town of Midhurst, this is the castle for you. A slow climb up the kitchen tower staircase to the rooftop and the ensuing view of the adjoining Walled Gardens (part of the Estate not the Cowdray Heritage |Trust) and vista across the polo grounds is well worth the effort. Why are the Tudor chimneys so plainly built when most owners at the time tried hard to embellish them? Little things like this are intriguing. Walking back down the stairs try and spot the fireplace half way up the Tower. They put in a temporary floor 12 feet up after the fire. Then removed it later. Fascinating. And those amazing windows which throw down light on the kitchens.
The walk along the river bank to the base of St Ann’s Hill, the subsequent climb to the old Midhurst Castle site with its giant, ancient chestnuts, and the gentle trundle down across the meadow to the old town and its beamed houses is not to be missed as is the quarter-mile Causeway to the castle gates from North Street and its free car park. Yes. Free. Unbelievable. But, a key factor in your enjoyment. A long stroll, a lengthy picnic in the park, taking your time to watch cricket in the summer or a game of rugger in the winter, none are spoilt by watching the clock.
For those who want some family entertainment, something for the kids to get their teeth into, choose a re-enactment day at the Castle and watch the Wardour Garrison or Raven Tor do their stuff. Or perhaps the Sussex Midwives cooking Tudor Food in the original kitchens. And for those who like playing with water, or seeing others doing so, the annual Rother Raft Race is a total joy, a day when the community and visitors meld as one. Don’t miss it!