We spent a few days in Tromsø in the beginning of March, of course for the Northern Lights, which we did see twice in all their magnificence that eludes and mocks all attempts of description.
But we wanted to explore the countryside as well, and we did not want to rent a car - at the time of our stay, the weather was unnaturally mild, the roads melted and then froze over again every night. Getting around by public transport means time-consuming, clumsy connections. (The legendary roundtrip "Bus to Skjervøy - Hurtigruten ferry back" only works on Fridays.)
That's why one morning we opted for seeing the landscape from the water. Several short daytime trips are offered, starting in center city from the Floating jetty at Stortorget. We chose the "Arctic Sea Cruise" trip from 10:00 to 13:00, and the ride was an unforgettable experience, worth every penny even though not cheap. Equipped with water- and windproof Fisherman's suits (included in the price), we did not go inside one single time, so fascinated were we by the awe-inspiring snowy mountains slowly gliding past in complete silence. We stopped near the end of a small fjord, at the edge of the Ice, and on the way back the boat crunched through a thin skin of ice just forming - almost eerie. Even a whale accompanied us for a few minutes.
Combine this with a cablecar trip to Fjellheisen to see the mountains from an elevated point,
and there's an easy way, especially if you don't have much time, to get a glimpse of what this gigantic, silent landscape is like.
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