There are two ways up - I took the steep one up and came to the conclusion that such a route would have be banned in the UK under Health & Safety. The ancient pathway has crumbled and its more a case of having to be very careful. Teenagers would enjoy it but nothing younger. The views from the top are breathtaking and the longer route down with information boards is probably the best way to return to the village

There are two marked paths from the village - we turned right at the start of the old town which led up a stony path, quite steep. It was marked as 25 minutes, which was about right. Lots of informative signs on the way (in German & English) give you a sense of the history and some of the myths surrounding the castle over the centuries - and give you the chance for a breather whilst climbing. The alternative route, which we did as the descent, is mainly stone steps which lead to the centre of town (this route is marked 20 minutes for going up).

The views from the top are wonderful, and make the climb well worthwhile. The ruins are - well, just that - but the trip is recommended for a spot of exercise before taking a refreshing drink and bite to eat in the lovely old town. One thing to note - based on Trip Advisor's rankings we had planned to take lunch at the Sänger Blondel restaurant, but were disappointed to find that it does not open on Sundays, despite the popularity of the town with weekend tourists.

As Wachau is one of the most exciting courses of Austria, a boat trip from Melk to Krems is inevitable. Of course the reverse direction (Krems to Melk) is also possible; but I advise the former one.
But be aware and do not skip to disembark at Dürnstein town. Climbing to the castle ruins using the stony old road (Eselsteig) takes you 20 minutes filled with excitement as the Donau panorama lifts at each step with an increasing magic splendour. Walking sticks and shoes are advisable.
Once down to the town you can spend some more time enjoying narrow and historic streets and tasting local culinary artefacts. If it is time to depart do not take the train or bus, because Krems is within walking distance. The well paved and marked road will take you through Wachau wine regions vineyards and then medieval streets of Stein town till the historic city center of Krems where you can pick a train to Wien each hour.
In short; a visit to Wien without Wachau is incomplete; so is a Wachau trip without a Dürnstein stop.

Durnstein on the banks of the Danube has the history of Richard the Lionheart's capture as its main claim to fame. Read all about it on the climb up a paved path to the top. The views are worth the effort of making it to the top. Only a half hour for physically fit but careful if your knees have gone already. You can do a circle walk, up the harder side and down more easily. It was a Sunday when we stopped by and we didn't see another soul. Very quaint village in the heart of wine country. Since it was winter none of the tasting rooms were open. Try the local Gruner Veltlineer grown all over Domaine Washau, the local co-operative, a crisp dry white. Its available everywhere, even Waitrose has it! Prost!