One of the reasons for travel is to sample the local cuisine of different countries. And one of the best ways to do this is to watch where the locals choose to eat their local cuisine.
When looking around the various restaurants in the old town centre of Paphos, it was clear that Taverna Fettas was busy every evening, with most tables occupied by locals. So that was our cue to go in and join them - and it was an excellent decision.
The menu was a full span of all the famous Greek and Cypriot dishes. We decided to share their meat mezze, and thoroughly enjoyed the enthusiasm of our waiter to explain every item in the long list of courses and accompaniments he brought us.
We had already discovered our love of Cypriot wines - especially the dry whites made in the area around Paphos - and the Fettas tavern offered a wide selection of them at very reasonable prices.
What no menu or wine list reveals, though, are the ways in which Cypriot hospitality are delivered. When we thought we had finished our marathon mezze, we were presented with a superb home-made cake desert, then home-made sweets, and then tea and coffee - none of which appeared on the bill. When I went to query this, the English-speaking locals at the next table explained that this is the Fettas way.
We later discovered that this is an urban reflection of a rural tradition. If you go into a coffee shop in a remote village, the tradition is that they thank you for visiting them by giving you a drink, a sweet, or a cake.
If you are in Paphos town and looking for a truly traditional Cypriot restaurant and a memorable meal in welcoming company, you'll find it at Fettas - and you'll be equally pleased by the bill!
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