From the time that Michael decided to abdicate his reign at Re Del Pesce, it's been a bumpy ride for him searching for the right conditions to take back his lost sceptre. I think he has found it in Archbishop Street, Valletta, in one of the beautiful sixteenth century palaces that the knights left behind and which has been partly occupied for a long time by the Civil Service Club - right next to the Grandmaster's Palace. The neat and pleasant ambience, the modern open kitchen, the general cleanliness and the standard of hygiene and decor of the toilets are all aspects of the new restaurant which hit you very positively. The service accorded to us by the charming Bosnian waiter who after 20 years in Malta now speaks Maltese fluently, was discreet, polite, attentive and efficient. It goes without saying that the food was superb. Even though it was a toned down simple lunch, Michael managed to present his dishes as if part of a Michelin-star degustation. And the tastes and texture of the dishes he creates are, well, his own! I believe Michael is performing at his peak and it would be a shame if those "Buon Gustai" out there do not promptly find the opportunity to visit Michael's for a meal that I promise they will remember for some time afterwards. If forced to mention one thing that is not entirely up to scratch, it would be the wine list. Though the good variety of wines is moderately-priced, the list can be improved with some finer brands. If you order a bottle of wine between two, in the eur30 price bracket, expect to pay about eur40 per head for the entire meal. Bravo Michael!
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