There are no views at night so you have no choice but to concentrate on your food, surroundings and company. The company must come first because, on a winter's night and a fair drive from Geneva through lots of roadworks, first iimpressions are of a dismal back parlour in some northern English town, the lighting dim, the tables very close together. Fortunately, the food is more rewarding than the setting but pricey for what you get. Surprisingly, fresh perch from the lake - sold by weight so know how much you can eat - is one of the most expensive dishes on the menu. It is brought to table on platters with mounds of really delicious chips. If this is your choice, you will need no starter or desert, just a good bottle of chilled white wine. But be warned, for three of you with a liqueur or two tio finish, you will not get away for much under 400 Swiss francs. That''s real money. Oh, yes, the salad. Don't order the salad unless you enjoy a tired and soggy melange of whatever the kitchen seemed to have left over. One day I will go back to see the view.
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