This restaurant is riding on a reputation that is undeserved. In short, it is a huge disappointment. Don't go. Read on for why.
To be fair, there were highlights:
- The tables were a good height;
- The Sicilian olive oil is very good;
- The salted cod was pretty and delicate;
- The dessert with shaved Parmesan was delightful.
But on with the review! Upon arrival we had some bubbly aperitif that was passable, just not once you noticed the price. There is also an oily roll of thinly-sliced zucchini that is a starter but fails to impress.
Rather than describe the dishes individually, I can sum the food experience (excepting the dessert) thusly: high attention to aesthetics, low attention to what the eating experience is like.
Their menu had warned me about this. If you look at the ingredients, they are simply boring. My companion was confident that Relæ would do something amazing with them ("They have a Michelin star", ergo they can cook).
What killed me was the wine menu. I expected expert pairings (four of them), i.e. the whole meal would be greater than the sum of the parts. What we got seemed like the result of some newbie foodie deciding to seek out unknown wines of nonexistent refinement based on their foodie/hipster creds (hint: exclusivity might mean nobody buys it!). It was like tasting the results of an introductory wine-making class. They ran the gamut from sourness to non-descript fruitiness to sediment-laden ORANGE colored wines. The silver lining was that they only poured half glasses, meaning you only had 2 glasses of bad wine to deal with. And it only cost 400kr per person! What a deal! I suspect it would kill a Frenchman.
I would have rated Relæ average if I didn't feel gouged for eating there . . . in Copenhagen.
You do not go to a nice restaurant for food that is less impressive than what you get at home. Unless you went to Relæ. And for the love of god, do not order the wine menu.
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