Let me say at the outset that I don't think the Portuguese are great cooks. Getting 'a good meal' was the height of our aspirations, generally, during our 2+ weeks in Portugal. Having said that, I heartily recommend Flor de Combria. We had the 'chafana' speciality: lamb cooked very slowly in wine; and we enjoyed our food. Some friendly German tourists across the room, who were also staying at our charming Casa Pombal, had other dishes and enjoyed their food, too. One of them had one of the vegetarian options. (Vegetarians generally are very hard pressed to find anything edible on Portuguese menus!)
But really what sets this place apart is the lovely ambiance and the owner, who is one of these Falstaffian, larger-than-life friendly guys who brings a smile to your face and suffuses you with feelings of boozy generosity. I loved 'im. I ordered a bottle of Casa Quelque Chose. He didn't have it. Why not try the house wine, he said -- €5 a litre (!!). It was very nice. Turns out he makes it himself from vineyards he owns some few miles away. And at the end of the meal two bottles appear, unasked for and gratis, from which we get to sample his homemade sweet apéritif or his 'aguardendte' ('water with teeth, with bite,' which is a Portuguese kind of 'grappa'). How very nice.
This was a really memorable experience, and that's what you want, isn't it? I have had many better meals from a culinary point of view (though not in Portugal, particularly); but I will remember this evening fondly for the rest of my days.
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