On our way to Italy this fall, we decided to take the Col Du Grand St. Bernard instead of the tunnel. We certainly did not regret taking the longer road, as you can enjoy stunning views of the surrounding mountains. (see my pictures). The small, windy road from the Swiss side will lead to a settlement at the top where you will find restaurants and lodging possibilities. there's a small St. Bernard kennel which is accessible for 10CHF per person.