My wife and I flew into Rome via Ciampino airport, and then took the bus service run by Terravision to Termini station. We arrived at Termini sometime after 11 pm.
I figured we would hop a taxi to our hotel near the Vatican. I preferred to use a taxi because I wasn't sure that Rome's limited subway service was still running so late, and furthermore I didn't want to be stuck wandering the streets of Rome at 11:30 pm with luggage in tow, looking for our hotel.
We stepped off the bus and were immediately approached by one or two cab drivers. Following the guidebooks' advice, we ignored these solicitors and headed for what looked like the taxi stand: there were about a dozen white cabs, with taxi signs on top and official emblems on the side, parked in two lines near a Termini exit.
I was a little baffled by how unorganized it was. There was no one in charge of the taxi stand, as some US airports have. There appeared to be just a couple of drivers randomly milling about among the cabs. I also remember that most, if not all, of the cabs themselves appeared to be empty at the time.
One of them, a female, asked if I needed a ride. I asked if they spoke English, which they did, and told them where I was headed. They quoted me a rate about three times what I was expecting. I was astounded and declined.
But looking about, I could see no other alternatives. As I said before, those drivers standing about appeared to be the only ones around. They HAD to be official cab drivers, I thought. In hindsight, what I should have done is entered Termini and try to find someone to question.
I asked them if the car (I pointed to an official cab in front of the line) was their car, and they said yes. Eager to get to the hotel, I eventually accepted the ride. They lead me to a different white car, in the middle of the pack of the cabs. Warning sign 1: Looking back now, I don't recall if that particular car had the official emblem on the side. At the time, I was too distracted with trying to get to the hotel.
Warning sign 2: the car was somewhat beat-up on the front. The front fender was somewhat smashed in. Warning sign 3: both the lady and one of the males got into the driver and passengers seats.
They drove very quickly and dangerously through the streets, running red lights and cutting off other cars. I realized what a mistake we had made by hopping in this cab and began to fumble with my money in the dark backseat. I wanted to have payment ready before we arrived, rather than bring out my wallet (a travel wallet hidden under my clothes) immediately in front of them when we arrived.
When we arrived, I asked my wife to get out to make sure the luggage was taken out of the back while I paid the driver. As I started talking to the driver, the female, the male quickly ran up to the window and said, "No no no, don't talk to her; I'm the one who can speak English; pay ME."
With our luggage, standing in a quiet, empty side street, facing this fairly muscular fellow who could probably pin me with one arm, I just wanted to get the entire situation OVER with asap. I gave him a 50 euro bill and asked for five back. He asked for clarification. I again explained that I wanted five back as change.
He seemed to understand, but then said: "But you only gave me a 10!" He showed me the bill I had handed him, a 10-euro note. Like an idiot (and again, under enormous stress and concern over our safety at that point), I apologized for the mistake and took back the 10. I gave him a 50, and he returned a five.
As soon as they pulled away, we realized what he had done. With the overcharged fare rate and the note-switcheroo, we had been taken for about 100 US dollars.
I can live with being ripped off on fare. That was just the product of my poor understanding of a bad deal. But I am furious that he so easily able to rob of us another 40 euros.
In hindsight, I am actually GRATEFUL. I am thankful that the situation did not turn out worse. They could have taken us to a secluded area and robbed us or much worse. He could have even assaulted us with ease in the quiet street where our hotel was. I am glad we lost only money, but this incident left a bitter taste in our mouths for our remaining days in Rome.
I accept full responsibility for my mistake that day, for my placing myself and my wife in a very risky situation. HOWEVER, I'm still furious at Termini station for allowing these conmen to pose as taxidrivers so easily. Why isn't there someone in charge of the taxi stand? Where were the real taxi drivers? Why was this imposter taxi allowed to park with the real taxis? Don't the real taxi drivers care? Are the real taxi drivers in on it too?
I consider myself wiser (or at least less foolish) and more confidant now. I hope that readers can learn from my mistakes and avoid being ripped off or worse. The mistakes seem so foolish right now, but once you are in a stressful situation, it's surprising how susceptible you become to poor judgment.
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