Walking about Trastevere, we just happened upon Santa Maria in Trastevere. What a happy accident! Neither of us are church-goers or ascribe to a formal religion, but we were so affected by the serene peacefulness of this lovely little church that we just sat there in silence for awhile. The music playing softly in the background was ethereal and comforting--I would love to have it on CD! Though not on our itinerary, this was a high point of my week in Rome.