We spent five nights at the Smeraldo in mid-June, having previously stayed for four nights on our last visit to Rome almost three years ago. (The renovations to the bathrooms since our last stay are wonderful.) We simply love the location of this hotel, just a few minutes from the Campo di' Fiori, Pantheon, Piazza Navona and Jewish Ghetto areas, as well as the excellent transportation hub of Largo Argentina.
We love to stroll around after dinner, and this Old Rome area is the best area for night walks, with all the action on the Campo, at the Pantheon and on the Piazza Navona. (And don't forget Giolitti's for gelato!)
And the price is amazing for this great central location; I assure you that you cannot get this quality of room for under $200 a night anywhere else in Old Rome.
We requested a quiet room on an upper floor and were given exactly that. The room even was larger than expected because of the floor space for an extra bed tucked away in a cabinet, so we had plenty of room for the large amount of luggage we had with us because we were staying in Rome after a 12-day cruise. Our previous visit was in October, so this was our first test of the air conditioning, and it did a yeoman job the first few days of our stay due to an unseasonable heatwave.
Many people in their reviews of the Smeraldo complain about the attitude of the staff, but we always have found them very responsive if asked for anything. We had the front desk men make dinner reservations for us, no problem, arrange for airport transportation for us, no problem, fix the door and replace the key I broke off in the door at 11 PM our first night, no problem, etc. They even helped me with my beginner's Italian, all nice gentlemen. The street map provided also covers all the streets in the central area, so it is very helpful for sightseeing.
The beds are firm (which I like), the rooms and linens are spotless, the windows have excellent soundproofing - I never heard a thing when we closed the large doors to the lovely small balcony overlooking the quaint street. When left open, we enjoyed the church bells and the lovely views.
Breakfast was also excellent - great cappucinos are available upon request, and there is hot milk in a large heater as well as coffee to make a great start to the day. Tea, delicious blood orange juice, pineapple juice and chocolate mix to make hot chocolate also were provided. Ham and cheese was available every day, as well as a great mix of fresh pastries - iced croissants, regular croissants, cream-filled horns, Danish - and a black and white pound cake, as well as hard rolls, melba toast, yogurt, two kinds of cereal, granola, honey and nutella (which I slathered onto my croissants with abandon).
I highly recommend the Smeraldo for an excellent budget stay in a very central charming area of this most wonderful city.
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