The positives and negatives of Borgo Papareschi are the same as when we stayed there a year ago.
On the plus side, great location, big rooms, clean, good value. In comparison, some of our complaints are perhaps minor: decor is minimal, there's an absence of clothes hooks and no mirror except in the bathroom, which we pointed out a year ago. On the other hand, shelf space had improved since our last visit.
These negatives aren't show-stoppers. Heating is a whole other issue. I would imagine that for 11 months of the year this isn't a problem. The rooms are big, with stone floors, ideal for hot weather. Very few of the windows, upstairs or down, get much sun. Before the heat is turned on, in mid-November, mornings and evenings are bone-chilling, towels and clothes permanently damp. The property has a drier but at one euro per 10 minutes it's hardly worth drying socks and undies. It would be cheaper to go out and buy new ones. I'm not sure the owner appreciates this. Talking to him out in the courtyard on a sunny morning, he doesn't see any problem with the lack of heat. Go inside at 7 in the morning or evening and you'll be shivering. To appreciate the problem (in the ground-floor rooms at least), he or his staff should spend a night or two in one of the rooms in November when the overnight temperature is dropping to low double-figures.
Any month but November, or late October, we'd be happy to return to Borgo Papareschi. It has a lot going for it. If we take future vacations in the late fall we're going to have to look elsewhere.
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