Sitting in the middle of the city, surrounded not by vast spaces, like the Roman ruins, or acres of piazza, like St. Peter's, you turn a corner onto a small piazza and there it is. The board announcing mass times had me confused at first, since I had missed the fact that this is now a functioning Catholic church. But once inside, the ancient Roman structure dominates all. Looking up at the oculus and seeing how it lights the vast space made me admire the Roman architects as much as anyone on the Palatine Hill. It was also lovely later in the week to see the interior space duplicated in the Sala Rotunda in the Vatican Museums. It was almost as lovely there.
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