We stayed in Trastevere. I didn't particularly like our B & B, but I LOVED the neighborhood. There are tons of great coffee shops (called "bars" during the day, don't be dissuaded from going in). Lots of pizza joints, traditional Italian restaurants, inventive "foodie" type restaurants and even fine dining. Lots of wonderful shops, interesting churches and architecture. Wonderful people watching. Lots of taxi stands and a quick walk to the Jewish Ghetto, Campo di' Fiori.
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