We stayed in a little apartment for a week and had the best time! We arrived just as the wild strawberries were making their appearance at dinner. We were able to wander into some very off-the-tourist-agenda places and after a few awkward moments of being appraised, were treated well. After dinner in the evening we sat around a large square where old men and women gossiped and children knocked around a soccer ball. I have never felt so relaxed. A truly REAL place.
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