After many years' absence, my husband and I returned to Capri this past May for four days, at the end of which we wished that we could have stayed longer ! Thousands of words have been written about Capri, and of course much has changed since our last visit, but the essential Capri was as I remembered it: beautiful, sunny and timeless. Our evening visits to the Piazetta (main square) for an aperitivo usually took us to the Bar Caso, which is rather quieter than the other three but in an excellent position to watch the world go by and we discovered a delightful small restaurant called Pulalli, right next door to the bar, reached by climbing the steps within the bell tower and being able to sit on a small terrace overlooking the brightly lit Piazetta - the food was excellent and the service friendly. In Anacapri we also found Il Solitario, a remembered family restaurant now run by the younger generation, an equally affordable and most delightful place to enjoy a variety of typical southern Italian fare.
But our best re-discovery was the Albergo 4 Stationi, a gem of a place, which in the old days had been a "pensione" which served a modest evening meal. It, too, is now run by the younger generation, two brothers, Paolo and Alessandro, and although the 4 Stagioni no longer provides meals and its recent renovations hve given it a more modern look, it is still essentially a wonderfully warm and friendly family-run hotel, with a fabulous terrace shaded by a glorious bougainvillea where breakfast is served and another sun-drenched terrace overlooking the Marina Piccola bay, where one can relax on the loungers provided. Our room was modest but spotlessly clean with an en-suite bathroom, efficient air conditioning and a small TV, plus a small private terrace - we couldn't have been more comfortable. Some of the rooms have sea views, others overlook the garden and have small balconies and apparently there are internal rooms as well which cost less. Another factor in its favour is its situation as it's a ten minute walk to the Marina Piccola beach, just over five minutes' walk to the Piazetta and there's a bus stop about 50 yards away. Last but by no means least is the helpfulness and kindness of the owners, both young men going out of their way to give as much information about anything one might need to know. Here we must also mention their uncle Pino whose knowledge of Capri is masterful, his anecdotes endlessly amusing and if you like walking as we do, he'd be able to send you on a different walk daily for weeks on end ! Capri is expensive and the 4 Stagioni provides more than adequare accommodation at a reasonable price, plus positive aspects which have no price - we highly recommend it.
My favourite room is above, overlooking the sea - very romantic !
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