On arrival in tiny Atrani (smallest village in Italy because of the tiny shelf of rock it clings to) I met a Norwegian couple who said they chose to stay here every year. I could soon see why. Only 10 mins walk from Amalfi, yet an absolute haven of peace away from the hordes of tourists there (and in Positano and Ravello.) I breathed a sigh of relief each time I took the (spectacular) walk around there from Amalfi. Atrani is a real village not a tourist trap. An evening in the square might include a local family birthday party at a nearby table, or a meal at Osteria Luisella with warm hospitality and delicious fresh produce from their own farm. And spread around this village there is a network of rooms and apartments under the care of hosts Filippo and Gabriele. Yes the rooms are sometimes quirky and have character - this is unique (and in my experience spotlessly clean) accommodation in a unique place. In my 4 days there I actually came to worry about Gabriele's health because he worked so hard at the cleaning and had such high standards for it! And Filippo seemed to genuinely care about his guests - which these days is pretty rare. Can't imagine staying anywhere else on the Amalfi Coast.
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