We went on a package holiday to Capo Vaticano (putting it on the map of the big boot of Italy, it's the tiny butt on the big toe) and stayed for 2 weeks in April 2004.
Weather was rather wet and chilly, swimming was out of the question (water temperature 16-18 C), so we rented a small car (300 e / 2 weeks) and spent most of the holiday driving from coast to coast to the Ionian sea. Best scenic routes were around the tip of southern Calabria toward the town of Reggio di Calabria, and in the mountainous areas and national parks. There are few big attractions, but the nature is amazing: dramatic cliffs dropping into the Mediterranean with roaring waves, Stromboli volcano visible in the horizon, gorgeous scenery and peaceful countryside. We recommend going on a day trip to the volcanic Eolian islands Lipari and Stromboli. Boats pick you up directly off the hotel beach and within hours you can sniff sulphuric fumes from the active volcano and feel the heat of the black lava sand. The islands have good restaurants and many shops, also the boats have bars and snacks, and excellent service. Picnic lunches are very common in Italy so nobody frowns upon you.
The rain had one big positive effect: springtime flowers like wild Crocus and Gladiolus italiana were everywhere! Literally we could add hundreds of species in our "photo-herbarium".
There are some ancient Roman ruins around Calabria, with small archeological museums. Citrus and olive groves, shepherds guarding their sheep and mediaeval towns with red-tile roofs. Bigger towns have bustling shopping streets but the little villages still have a laid-back old-time feel. People were friendly and helpful even if we could speak no Italian.
Hotels on the coastal countryside of Capo Vaticano are mainly self-catering bungalow-style. Tropea town has big all inclusive resorts and in the old town some smaller, more romantic, a bit old-fashioned by European standards.
Restaurants were not impressive but this was low season, so only the hardiest were open, and we had to either settle for home-cooking (on gas cooker) supermarket groceries or browse the couple of pizzerias. Prices around 10 euros per large pizza. Low season was truly low also in the entertainment sector so no comment on that.
Ice cream parlours, however, seemed to be always open and the delicious flavours were truly fantastic! Really, there can be no flavour not already tried by the Italian ice cream masters. Gold medals won in trade fairs testify the talents of the chef...
Southern Calabria can be recommended for keen nature-lovers and those who wish to see genuine Italian life!



