We ate here at least 6 times over a 10 day vacation and just had to keep going back. Very tiny neighborhood place, not touristy at all and often we appeared to be the only non-locals in the place. It's down a steep staircase, they have a bar w/stools + 6 tables along a bench set into the wall. Great food - never had anything we didn't like - from tapas to entrees. Two awesome women running the show - we never learned their names, but they were really lovely and after the first visit always greeted us with a smile and a hello. They do have an english menu if you ask for it. Will be very smoky (as will most places in Madrid) and more often than not someone was there with their dog, so if that bothers you take it into consideration. Love the salmorejo (cold tomato cream w/hardboiled egg and bacon), pork cheek stew, pork loin with carmelized onions, all the tostas, cheeses and chorizos. More than once since we've been home and can't think of where to have dinner, we've looked at each other and one of us has said, "I miss Emma!" Right across from the Mercado de San Miguel, on the far side from Plaza Mayor.