this restaurant was one of two Michelin starred restaurants i attended this trip.
the expectations wer'e high and weren't let down.
the hotel in which the restaurant resides is one of the most elegant i've seen and the restaurant itself is richly and tastefully decorated and consists of a few tables in order to avoid being crowded. some tables have a good view of the Alster.
the service is of the best i ever encountered. the staff are extremely friendly and make you feel as if you're visiting a good friend.
i was offered two menus, of which i could choose 4 or 6 dishes. i was told i can mix between the menus but was recommended to stick to the menu which isd called "palate party 1897" so i took all it's six courses.
the wine list is no less than thrilling, with the help of the sommelier i chose a reasonably priced riesling which was excellent.
the food is very elaborate and the dishes consist of many ingredients. in some dishes the ingredients revolve around a specific theme (i.e differnt types of tomatoes in differnt preparing methods) . small card preceds each dish to describe the dish and to keep as a souvenir.
first came 4 small appetizers on one plate :
* cucumbers and yoghurt - a sophisticated goumet version of zaziki consisting of layeres of cucmbers jelly, yoghurt and fluffy cucumbers cream. nice
* north sea prawns with apples - good combination of textures but the taste could use a little edge
* eel and beetroot - a piece of raw eel between two beetroot-radish macaroons. also nice
* duck liver and passionfruit - a small ball of duck liver pate glazed with passionfruit caramel and coated with croquant of some sort. classic but updated.
now i was offred a selection of breads of which i chose a gooseberry bun, an onion bun, a Bavarian pretzle and apricot nuts bread. these were served along with butter that was gently seasoned with sea salt and pesto butter. i found the apricot nut bread a little too firm but good. rest of the breads were very good and the pretzle was excellent. the pesto butter was good but the salted butter stole the show and was delicious.
then came yet another appetizer - scallop carpacio in apples gaspacho with apple pearls and slices, celery, radish slices, trout and sturgeon caviar, lemon verbana and radish cress. it was very good and all ingredients combines well with each other but i think it should have contained more than 2 scallop slices.
the next dish was goose liver parfait with elderberry-almond milk gel, accompanied with goose liver creme brulee upon which rested an elderflower sorbet, grilled brioche, green almond kernels, glazed rhubarb and celery orange relish. i rushed to sample the elderflower sorbet which was good, the goose liver brulee was very tasty and the parfait was a classic treat.
next dish was red mullet fillet confit in marjoram rapeseed oil vinaigrette on marinated black kumato tomato , yellow tomato, jouno tomatoe compote and iced basil. again, i tasted the iced basil first and found it scrumptious, the fish was very good and combined well with the vinaigrette and the tomatoes.
another fish dish came - turbot sauteed in nut butter with roasted lobster and lobster sauce, green leek hearts, green asparagus, new broad beans, caramelized onions, onion-port creme and miso-tamarind hollandiase. it's the first time i eat turbot and i don't know why i waited so long. the dish was superb and exquisitely combined the different flavours and textures.
the next dish was pigeon breast cooked "sous vide" in lemon-peeper jus with carrors creme, pastilla of pigeon leg, glazed beets, new carrots from Duwick, beta sweet carrorts & carrot-lemon meringue. the pigeon breast was succulent and went very well with the jus, the mini pastillas (morrocan poultry bake) were nice. all the rest was also very tasty without overshadowing the breast.
the last savoury dish was loin of venison with trail mix (roasted nuts mixture) and a shoulder of venison braised in juniper and piment with califlower puree, roasted cauliflower, sauteed chantrells, roll of pointed cabbage, glazed cherries perfumed in ginger and dark venison just with cinnamon. the venison loin was juicy and tender and the shoulder piece was full of flavour, they went well with the jus and the puree and the nuts gave the loin a crunchy edge and perhaps a little too much of saltiness. the rest was also very nice and contributed to the overall experience.
i was offered a taste of the cheeses selection and was a little disappointed to find no german cheeses as i always like to try local specialties. i sampled some Époisses, munster and gruyère which were very good. i was again offered bread and now chose olives bread which was nice. i also got a tomatoe confiture which was tasty.
now came a priliminary dessert - rote grütze (red fruits compote) of strawberrry and rhubarb spiced with vanilla pulp and served with wood sorrel sorbet,sweet & sour yoghurt crisps and lemon-yoghurt meringue. it was a dessert fit for kings and it was the sorbet which made the difference as it went so well with the compote, giving it just enough sour contrast and a cool refreshing sensation.
the second dessert (the one appearing in the menu) was a warm chocolate moelleux served with grapefruit fillets, grapefruit gel, chocolate biscuit, rose meringue, grapefruit-roses sorbet, coconut ice cream, coconut creme and rose petal dust. this dessert was less enjoyable than it's precedent. the moelleux was indeed superb but not extraordinary, the grapefruit sorbet was excellent but the coconut ice cream was no more than ok. all in all it was a very good dessert but i've tated better or equivelant desserts in none starred restaurants.
last came a selection of pralines and petit fours :
* forest berries praline - a wonderful combination of white chocolate with berries cream filling and berries dust coating.
* passionfruit praline - very good but i didn't feel enough of the passionfruit's sourishness
* basil-lime praline - aromatic but gentle and very tasty
* tonka bean praline - not my cup of tea at all
* rose praline - the chocolate overpowered the roses flavour
* lemon macaroon - fabulous
* exotic marshmellow - left me indifferent
* poppy tarte - tasty but ordinary
* chocolate-nougat sanswich - loved it
a must for gourmands!!
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.