Mrs. Heising opens the front door for us and escorts us into her dining room. It was as if pressing the door bell opened a portal to another era of fine dining. It felt as if we were 30 years back in time.
Mr. Heising is 80, he is proud to say. Sometimes his daughter helps in service but today is quiet and they manage the 10 tables themselves. The food is über-french every day. Frog legs in cream sauce with parsley & Burgundian snails in garlic. Bresse chicken in truffle jus and Deer filet with a thick - believe it or not - Roux-based sauce.
Mr. Heising does the wines. It's not a wine list per se, it's a list of wines Mr. Heising finds appropriate. He recommends champagne with the frog legs, Riesling with the snails and a bottle of '06 Haut-Medoc for everything else. It's a that sort of establishment, and I would feel out of place drinking anything other than Bordeaux with my main course.
The Heising restaurant is far from only a restaurant. It's a trip back in time. Mr. Heising is sometimes still there as he snaps his fingers to the rhythm of the 1930's. Throwing in the occasional dance step after the plates are presented, with Mrs. Heising shaking her head in disbelief.
That's how they roll Heising-style.
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