This place is part of the Excelsior Hotel, but open to anyone. It is small and the decor is certainly not fancy. But the food is truly excellent - down-to-earth, almost homely dishes but so well executed you immediately want to come back. The menu is not long and wisely achieves quality through focus, but the wine list is extensive and advice on it - as all service - is attentive and friendly. The place tends to be booked so do make a reservation before you go. Only drawback is the drab neighbourhood close to the main station.