I'd assume that any retaurant within whistling distance of the Amphiteater would be a tourist trap, but this little Italian owned pizzaria was a find on a number of fronts. The owner/waistaff were great hosts, naturally slow with their French that would break into Italian with few misunderstandings as an odd result. And speed: it seemed we had hardly ordered when it came fresh and hot from the oven. We had pizzas – mine a delicious salty combination of anchovy, tuna and capers, my friend's a gorgous arrangement of tomatoes and round slices of mozzarella. The crust is crispy and thin, shattering in cracker like bits that are impossible to leave behind. We left our ample plates empty. There are plenty of pasta dishes on the menu to choose from as well.We made reservations for our large group to have our last meal here and they were able to set a table several night later for a party of 16. Intimate, crowded and happy with the same expert, fast, and congenial service.
The small alley leading into Douhey Plaza is lined with tables and chairs on each side for the various restaurants, and while hunting for food that would reflect the full geography of Arles – beyond tapas and sea bass and goat cheese and tomato taretine – we spied platters of hummous and pita and cucumbers on tables outside a restaurant called P ____________. I opted for the larger platter, “Degustation” for 13 euros and welcomed generous portions of all that and more: potato, eggplant, and the best falafel I have ever had (having been a vegetarian for nearly 10 years, this is meaningful). Reasonable, well presented in a charmingly crowded lane in the northwest quarter of the city center.
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