No visit to Aix would be complete without stopping by the city's oldest cafe, where Cezanne and Zola convened; but it really IS a tourist trap, like many of the bistros & brasseries on the Cours Mirabeau. The menu is expensive & not very memorable: spaghetti Bolonaise and fish & chips seemed to be the best-sellers. But the sidewalk tables offer a nice spot for people-watching, and a stroll inside (even just to use the toilets) reveals a beautiful restaurant with character and ambience. My recommendation: try it for a quick coffee, then go elsewhere to dine.
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