Succumbing to rave reviews similar to those one finds here, dining at Le Cinq was much dreamed about and highly anticipated.
And indeed, the luxury of the dining room is impressive and grand, although the first grain of doubt, that is good taste yielding to knock-out ostentation, creeps insidiously at the first steps walking to the table.
The next astonishment, swallowed silently , came with the welcoming starter arrival - how was it possible in a three-star Parisian establishment to serve proscuitto with absolutely no invention – just plain good old proscuitto on the plate? We were not in Italian trattoria…That was a bit shocking, and ominous - the quality of the restaurant can ALWAYS be judged by this chef's treat before anything else arrives. It is the same in purpose as the first dazzling aria in an opera, made up to hold one’s breath, to astonish, to set up the mood for the remainder of the performance. Le Cinq was a perfect example of the rule, unfortunately.
After such a starter, the proudly announced duck, advertised as having been cooked for 24 hours, revealed its best kep secret of being just a chewy sweet overcooked piece of protein, accompanied with Chinese style green beans, suspiciously reminding of the taste of China town in any major American city.
Dessert was just as mediocre, and it was funny how pompous everything was described by the staff, with their eyes rolling in ecstasy, only to end up so bland and plain on the plate. Indeed the service was the best ingredient of the dinner, persuasive and even hypnotic - waiters were speaking so solemnly, with awe and reverence about the dishes. And then, after the sobering tastelessness of the first bite it was only too painful to feel the inability to join them in their near-religious worship of this eclectic edible food. One explanation may be that they never try Le Cinq food themselves because it’s so exorbitantly expensive that the management prohibits even the chef to taste a spoon or two?
It is sad to see how the desire to be different and extravagant exterminated the bottom-line - serving fine French cuisine to delight all senses. Le Cinq must be so hype and in vogue due to the prestige they managed to create, and perhaps the diners simply don't dare to admit how poor the food is after paying a fortune for an evening of a surrealistic gastronomic discovery.
And one last note – the décor and flowers in the clear vases must be Four Seasons signature, as in Cairo or in Boston the decorations are very similar. Which takes the previously assigned admiration for originality somewhat away.
Let it always be One Feasting Season in Paris, as in can be discovered in so many other great places, like L’Espadon, to compare truffles to truffles.



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