We have been to Locks under the helm of several different owners and chefs. The current incarnation is one of the best, even if it does not quite nudge the memory of the first incarnation out of first place.
We were there quite early, and nobody else had food when we were ordering- and I would have ordered differently if I had seen the food before ordering. For example, the cod, carrot and coriander main course sounded as if it could be a standard, even stodgy, dish- but when it was presented to the person in our party who ordered it, it turned out to be somewhat deconstructed take on the usual dish- light, elegant, with clear and distinct flavours that were more than the sum of the parts. The pan-fried sea trout that I had was perfectly fresh, perfectly cooked and the supporting elements were imaginative, used judiciously and done well. Our group of 5 enjoyed all of the courses, with service that was helpful and polished, if a tiny bit on the slow side.
Locks is definitely a foodie restaurant, with a calm and pleasing ambiance, a nice canal-side location (we were there at sunset, and it looked lovely with the sun slanting through the trees, onto the water) and prices that are not too brutal for what you are getting (and the 2 course dinner menu is good value, relatively speaking). It's nice to see it back in form!
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