On a return visit, the level of cuisine continues to be above average while still not at the top level of, say, the Peat Inn. Dishes are still quite busy (many ingredients, cuts and cookings in each of them) but they hold together well and feature good technique and some creativity. For example a risotto with veal in Italy immediately evokes the cut called 'ossobuco', the shin cut transversally and presented bone-in with the rice, but here it was served in a lighter version, with a small (maybe too small) quantity of shredded shin beef wrapped in a cabbage leaf. The dish looked very pretty and the rice, while on the 'cheesy' side, was cooked in a way that would have held its own in fine restaurants in Italy. A very good take on risotto overall, and we've eaten a lot of it in our lives!
Also, a venison was cooked in an exemplary way and had depth of flavour, even though the garnish tasted very sweet overall, and a starter of roasted beetroot was pretty and satisfying. Perhaps the least impressive dish, while still OK, was the chicken one, with many captivating flavours but not real finesse and some confusion, and also a ridiculosuly small quantity (three leaves) of the advertised cavolo nero.
Service is kind but apart from the maitre d'/sommelier a little naive and forgetful (empty glasses, lack of in depth knowledge of the dihes, forgot to return item from the wardrobe, etc.). Food prices are OK for the quality but wine looks a little overpriced.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.