To describe a hotel as really quite good may for most establishments be considered high praise indeed. For a 5 Star hotel with rates which can (at certain times of the year) cause palpitations in the heart of even the most decadent traveller, it may, however, be seen as more of a slamming indictment. The Balmoral is rather akin to a Victorian dowager duchess outwardly dressed to the nines in all her finery but secretly wearing underwear purchased in the bargain basement of Miss Selfridge.
There can be no doubt that as you glide down Prince's Street (Edinburgh's main shopping thoroughfare) you will be immediately impressed with this landmark building which looks more like a Victorian North-of -England City Hall than a hotel. Its clock tower is one of the main landmarks on the Edinburgh skyline and its titanic, boldly carved stone facade would grace any building embodying the civic pride of Victorian Britain. You shall be met at the door by a jolly porter dressed in a modern take on full Highland dress. This gentleman opens the huge mahogany Victorian door into a world perhaps more at home on a BBC makeover programme than in a fine old railway hotel. In what seems to be an attempt to shroud the hotel's embarrassment at its outward Victorian riches and splendour, the interior of the Balmoral is most definitely contemporary and minimal. In hues of pale blue and cream and much helped by the afternoon harpist playing in the Palm Court, the atmosphere is one of contrived calm restfulness. The staff are extremely friendly and helpful but can be rather too attentive - even for one more used to the provincial countryside, being shown how to use a television really is taking hospitality that one step too far.
Having checked in, you will be accompanied to your lodgings. My room (on the 6th floor) was decorated in a similar style to the public areas and had a wonderful view across to the National Monument through a rather sad little window high on the facade. Having stayed recently in the Imperial Hotel in Vienna (another 5 Star but perhaps the most spectacular I have seen), I must say I found the room somewhat unimpressive on the whole though the comparrison is hardly fair I suppose. That said however, the room was of splendid proportions, comfortable and adequately equipped and the bathroom was (perhaps rather unnecessarily) gargantuan in size and complete with all necessary accoutrements.
The hotel is very well equipped with a spa (pool, steam room and sauna) and gym which were apparently voted one of the best in Scotland. This facility was well kept and again the staff were very helpful and friendly. However, at certain times of the day the spa seemed to be more a day care centre for frazzled parents than a place of adult rest and relaxation and the entire area was often overrun with noisy children whilst their parents slumped exhausted on recliners - this may not be to everyone's taste.
Breakfast is served in the ultra-modern Hadrian's Brasserie and was very fine indeed if somewhat costly. During my stay it seemed that it was served buffet style at weekends and waitress service during the week. The Hotel also contains a Michelin starred restaurant and the reputedly famous Palm Court. The latter is a good place for a pre-dinner cocktail or a traditional afternoon tea (if you manage to get a table) although in decor it is less cream tea and fine china at the Ritz and more pint of lager with the lads in the Airport departures lounge. Certainly during my stay I spent most of my time therein wishing I could have torn down the garish red fabric wall hangings and hideous "modern art" and called for a few pots of paint in hues of pale green, pink and cream. Certainly the splendidly elegant glass roofed Court seemed to be worthy of better design than that currently attached to it.
The trump card of the Balmoral is however its location. On the edge of Prince's Street, it is the perfect base from which to explore the old town with its Castles, Palaces and Cathedrals whilst still leaving time to dash into Jenner's or the myriad of stores in the New Town before closing time. There is no better placed hotel in the city.
Overall, it may well be that I am hideously outmoded and old fashioned but I felt that the Balmoral, whilst a very fine establishment indeed, just lacked that certain something which should mark a good five star hotel out from its peers. However, on the other hand it serves as a very comfortable (if not opulent should you secure one of their famous suites) base from which Edinburgh can be explored at leisure. The staff are without exception friendly, helpful and efficient and even its standard rooms are well proportioned and exceedingly comfortable. I would commend this establishment to all seeking a luxurious (though not a traditionally opulent) stay in the heart of this vibrant and beautiful city.