I have to start by saying Edinburgh is my single most favorite city on Earth, the only city that comes close is the big city close to where I am from-- San Francisco. I returned to Edinburgh after 2 long years of thinking about visiting again, and I had an exceptional time on this trip. Previously I had stayed at the Premier Travel Inn on Lauriston Place near the Grassmarket and it was very nice and modern. This time I wanted to stay in a hotel that had more character and was in a different part of town, but it needed to be near the train station since I took a train from London to Waverly. The Royal British Hotel more than fit the bill in all these ways. I stayed for 4 nights in January 2006 at a rate of about 40GBP per night ($72 USD) for a double room, even though I was traveling solo. I arrived at the train station around 3pm and as I walked up the steps to Princes Street, there was no way I could miss the hotel, it is one of the first things you see when you come up from the station! I couldn't have asked for a better location! I entered, and went up to the check in and was assisted by a very helpful lady and given the key to my room (the key was on a key ring with a massive plastic card that had the hotel name and room number on it- it was so big it barely fit in my purse!!). I had room 307 which faced out toward Princes Street and was on the 3rd floor, right where the "AL" in ROYAL British was mounted on the hotel sign! So my window was only partially blocked by the AL, but it didn't really interfere with my view of the Royal Mile and castle. I could even hear the bag pipe player down the street by the Scott Monument-- a very authentic welcome!!

The room was a good size, with 2 twin beds, a desk, coffee tray (shortbread!!!!), a closet, and bathroom. The building is goodness knows how old, and it showed in the old fashioned wallpaper and high ceilings, but I liked it- it added to the ambiance of the city and experience. I slept in one bed the first night and it wasn't terribly comfortable, so I switched to the other one the next 3 nights and that one was better. The bathroom worked fine, though I took a shower later in the evening one night and ran out of hot water, then got scalded by it once it kicked back in, but it wasn't a big deal. The tv was small and mounted on the wall, and only got about 10 channels, most of which were from other countries. But I spent very little time in my room because Edinburgh is simply fascinating! I recommend climbing to the top of Arthur's Seat if you are able (it's quite a hike), and visiting the castle and Royal Mile, of course. Also check out Stirling, which is a 40 min train ride northwest; it's a nice sleepy little town with a castle.

I had breakfast each morning in the dining room, which has a lovely view. You have your choice of a little buffet of cereals, pastries, and fruit, or a cooked breakfast with eggs, bacon, and sausage and coffee. All of it was good and the service was brisk and not terribly friendly but still efficient. If you are out late (as I was one night), to re-enter the hotel, you have to ring the porter to let you in. After going out with some local friends, I returned at about 4:30am (!!) and it took quite a while to get the porter to let me in. Not sure if I woke him or not! But it wasn't a problem. In fact, it was a nice bit of extra security for the guests, really.

The one thing I have to mention is that I think my room might have been haunted! There's "something" in the atmosphere in Scotland that I can't describe, but it feels very old (obviously) and well lived in (which it is), and maybe some of the past residents haven't left! One night, I was in bed watching Celebrity Big Brother (because the UK is obsessed with that show!), when I heard a creaking sound coming from the area right in front of the bathroom and closet. It was a spot on the floor that creaked whenever I walked on it, like floors tend to do in old buildings. So when I heard the creak, I figured maybe someone in the hallway was making the floor creak somehow. Then it continued. And continued. To the point that I was getting curious and worried. I got brave, and walked to the room's door and peered under the crack to see if maybe someone was walking back and forth in the hallway making the sound, but I didn't see anyone. I then turned around and realized I had to walk right over the spot where I heard the creaking. So I took a deep breath and did-- and as I walked over the creaky spot, a patch of very cold air hit me, and the hair on my arms went up and I freaked out and drove across the room back into bed!! I didn't know what to do, since I don't really believe in ghosts, but I did say "Please leave me alone, I'm not here to bother you" for good measure. And the creaking stopped. I had crazy dreams while I stayed in the hotel (not in a scary way), and I think it helped make me love the city even more! I will be back for sure!

So, all in all, I highly recommend the Royal British Hotel for its location, facilities, breakfast, and possible unseen guests.... :)