Lunch here had been good enough to make us want to pay a return visit, and Vineet Bhatia and his team certainly made it worthwhile. Right from the chutneys with the lightest of papadums we had to begin, it was clear that we were in for a treat, one which required us to readjust our senses somewhat to be able to fully appreciate the heights of this imaginative approach to modern Anglo-Indian cuisine covering and melding the styles and ingredients of a number of sub-continental regions with the emphasis on Goa and Kerala. The Prestige menu was a riot of attractively-presented plates, spicy mixtures assailing the nose and the palate, temperature contrasts and extremely well-chosen, if expensive, wines. The crab lolly with crab chutney and lime and coconut soup was a really good introduction to all these features, although perhaps the crab was a touch too subtle for the spices. Again, the stakes were raised with the mustard-infused tilapia cooked in banana leaf which was perfectly balanced with giant couscous, spring onion and aubergine and augmented by a majestic saffron and chilli smear. Even better was the foie gras, grilled in spices and accompanied by a super green apple chutney, which, with a wild mushroom naan, and saffron and foie gras "coins", made an unbeatable combination. Then came chicken tikka. How mundane? Not many punters in high street curry houses would have recognised this incomparable dish with its mango infusion, coriander and tamarind rice, terrific white tomato sauce and caramelised tomato slices. There was a distinct tingle on the front of the tongue mellowing to a sublime reflection of Kerala in the aftertaste. The apposite rose petal sorbet topped with champagne and a rose marmelade complete with chunks of orange set us up for the "smoke cloud" herbed lamb rack, saffron semolina and coconut flakes with a lamb cutlet on top and a rogan josh sauce. The smokiness came through beautifully in the semolina and, for me, this would have been a truly memorable dish if the lamb rack had been pinker. The perfect finish came in the form of a "pista delice" of pistachio mousse with rose hips and caramelised and slightly spicy hazelnuts, boozy chocolate and a white chocolate smear - a délice which left us in transports of delight! This was a reassuring confirmation of our feeling last year that we have simply never eaten better in an Indian restaurant. Two minor points, however. Although the service was efficient and pleasant, particularly from Parag Rane, the assistant restaurant manager, we did have to ask for the description of the dishes to be repeated because of the rather heavy accents of other members of the waiting staff, and even if it was less noticeable when we were enjoying the food and discussing it, the dining room is dark to the point of gloom and would benefit from a lighter touch.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.