We were positively greeted on a rather speculative Saturday lunchtime visit to Fifteen Cornwall. It was busy but by no means full and we two were generously seated at a table for four with a full view of beautiful Watergate Bay. For those without reservations who can not be accommodated, there is seating at the antipasti bar.
Perhaps foolishly we were planning to eat well in the evening and were consequently rather circumspect with our menu choices. There seems to be no theme as such and that lack of cohesion extends to the decor so that there is no obvious identity to the place. Whoever chose the light fittings in whatever is the restauranteurs equivalent of the BHS lighting department must have been welcomed with open arms and left with an empty wallet.
An empty wallet or slightly scorched credit card is also a risk at Fifteen because it certainly is not cheap. Restrained portion sizes serve to underline this but the food is of very good quality and presented beautifully. On another positive note, I would suggest that the servings allow the comfortable digestion of a three course meal and minimise the food wastage which shames western society.
We shared buffalo mozzarella and tomato which was of excellent quality but not large. We had ordered bread which was very good and used with the remarkable olive oil which, although without additions, had a slightly shocking peppery taste which arrives a little late. My cauliflower risotto with anchovy pangretta was both unfamiliar and near-spectacular. I am not a fan of actual anchovies, finding their flavour far too strong and consulted the waiter carefully before choosing. The dish had a strong but very pleasant flavour of cauliflower and an incredibly well judged presence of anchovy. The pangretta lent an additional texture not usually found in a risotto. It was a dish to think about as well as savour. My partner's duck with lentils met with approval. He thought the lentils could have been cooked a little more but I disagreed.
The pannacotta dessert was no less than perfect. This is a dish done badly or at least inadequately in many places especially when the chef waves the gelatin wand too firmly. The accompaniments of strawberries and shortbread were equally good.
Overall, taking into account the service and view as well as the food it was value for money of sorts but wine drinkers would be facing a substantial bill. Go.
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