Pretty country pub now a restaurant run by 13 year head chef at Michel Roux's Waterside Inn. Front of house supervised by chef's charming but also skilled and attentive wife - a lovely hostess. Obviously this is not a mini-Waterside Inn. It is a rural restaurant in a far less affluent area. But deserves its a Michelin star. Extremely proficient smoked haddock risotto. Pigeon breast with curried brussels sprouts perfectly cooked and an intelligent flavour combination. Accompanying forcemeat made I think from pigeon liver and sausage meat was strong, but completed the dish. Main course of guinea fowl with pear tart tatin close to perfect, the skin of the bird crisp, the flesh still most and tender. John Dory perhaps somewhat disappointing (though only in relative terms), however, the plate flooded by a slightly bland cream sauce, though garnish of beans and chorizo compensated. A passion fruit cheesecake was a triumphant conclusion however. Service was obviously not in the usual Michelin tradition, and nor should it be. This is after all is a country pub as well as a restaurant, it isn't a place of pilgrimage for devotees of the Roux family. With this in mind, I would describe the service as both competent and warm. All in all well worth a detour or a night in a local B and B. We will be back.
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