This restaurant was an "old faithful" in a tiny location on Mont Royal E, steps from St. Denis, with reliably excellent food in a bit of a stuffy, quaint, tediously old-fashioned space. The new space on St. Denis (right around the corner) is clean, scrubbed-stone walls, modern (period, 60's-70's) lighting and hand-made solid wood tables. The menu is hand written, frequently changes, fresh to the nth degree with local produce and organic everything. The meats, fish and seafood are excellent and well prepared, and the sauces and combinations fresh and different. A very modernist approach with extremely high standards. We had the sublime asperges, brilliant presentation and taste, and a fois gras with roast pork paté, unbelievable (with spectacular bread), scallops served on an interpretation of paella with all local vegetables, lightly cooked and sublimely seasoned; a superb elk presented with a local chopped tomato, onion and basil terrine, and probably the best magret de canard we have had locally. This is technically bistrot cuisine (no table cloth) but in terms of quality, preparation and imagination, yields nothing to Michelin 1 and 2 stars in France. Wine list is fairly extensive given the category and focussed on lower and mid priced French wines, well chosen and correctly stored and presented. The deserts were home-made, also original (a cheese mousse with candied home-made fruits and coulis, a nougat arrangement, both excellent). No stuffiness, superb quality.
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