We dined here twice in a matter of weeks, both times the food was excellent, though the service was variable. The second time the service was excellent, the first amateur at best, but chatting to our waitron the second time the issue was a known server who might no longer be there. So giving the benefit of the doubt this will concentrate on the second visit.
Fine dining at an airport isn't usual but as the Fairmont Hotel is IN the airport it makes sense! The ambience is a little hotel lobby lacking warmth and intimacy so I wouldn't recommend this for honeymooners!
The welcome was genuine and warm. We joined our friends at the table as they arrived before us. Aperitifs were offered and gratefully accepted along with our water choice. For starters I had the seared Qualicum Bay with bacon and eggs carbonara and meyer lemon marmalade. The carbonara was incredibly tasty and induced a yearning for paglia e fieno which I later satisfied at home. The main was a tasty sea food paella. This was beautifully presented with fresh sea food. I'd opted to swap the pork belly for chorizo. My only slightly negative comment would be that the rice seemed more like arborio so the paella had a more risotto like consistency.
We all enjoyed the food - this really is a top class restaurant. It helps that the open plan kitchen is right there visible - we actually sat by the pass!
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