If you are looking for a low-key, unpretentious spot visited by locals & visitors alike, stop by El Navegante, a Veracruz-style seafood spot. The menu is limited but what they offer is very fresh, reasonably priced, and delicious!
The place is run by a young man from Veracruz and he seems to be a very hands-on owner, chatting with customers, preparing food, etc. The ceviche tostadas were light and refreshing, perfect for a hot day. We also tried the ceviche - different style than usually found in Playa del Carmen, but absolutely delicious. Everything is made to order, so it'll take a little time to get your order, but it's definitely worth the extra time.
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