We have just returned from our holiday in Cozumel (6 - 20 Sept 06) staying at the Grand Occidental Hotel. This has been one of the best holidays I have had for lots of reasons, not least a great tan - the weather was brilliant - couple of things to be aware of also.
The hotel is beautiful set in lush, well kept gardens. Little damage from Hurricane Wilma could be seen - really it's just the trees that used to fill the lagoon area behind the beach you can see this as you go over the wooden walkway but the turtles can be seen swimming below now so it's no problem really. The rooms are great, large with two queensize beds and large bathroom with walk-in shower. The cleaning ladies are brilliant and leave you towel animal sculptures daily - we tipped about a dollar a day which was appreciated.
Just a note - mosquitoes - if they like you (and you know who you are) they will go for you in abundance - we found that 'Off!' spray worked okay - better than roll on but make sure you cover all your bits or they'll find a way in! Be careful round the pool at dusk - nice to watch the sun go down but after a few drinks you won't notice them nibbling - take the bug spray with you is our advice!
The diving is great - you are never more than 15 minutes boat ride away from a decent dive. Quite a few drift dives too which was good and great visibility on nearly all our dives. We saw black tip sharks (small ones!) and a great variety of fish life and some brilliant swim throughs. Palancar Dive Centre on the beach next to the beach restaurant is good with some excellent Instructors/Divemasters. One or two people we met that were inexperienced divers found some of the dives a bit challenging as some of the divemasters hit the water and submerged straightaway - if you're unsure ask about their procedure - don't let it ruin your dive! If you fancy something different then go to the mainland and dive in the Cenotes - at first we were put off a bit by the cost but then realised we probably wouldn't get another chance so for £70 each we thought what the hell. One of the strangest and best dives of my life! You pay to get yourself to the ferry ($15 taxi one way for a couple) and then for the ferry ($10 each one way) and then they take you in a minibus to pick up your air and within an hour of getting off the ferry you are at the dive site. It's incredible, so clear, tiny fish (not many - don't expect fish!) and some freshwater shrimp. It's the rock formations you go to see and it's incredible - and yes you are in a cave and you do some swim throughs and sometimes you feel like you are floating in space it's so clear. We did two dives the second one allowing us to surface in the 'bat cave' - we were on cloud nine after this dive and will bore people to death about it for ages! We had a fantastic instructor with us - cave diver (Ricardo) - and he was super -really calm and very supportive - nerves went away and we just enjoyed it. All in all the diving could not have been better. If you want to check out all costs for diving go to the Dive Palancar website - it's linked from the hotel's website.
Back to the hotel - There are two pools one quiet set further back and one on the beach for activities - the pool attendants do all the activities and you can play pool volleyball, water polo etc - great fun if there's enough of you around to play. We met some good friends that way and enjoyed the company of our activities organisers. There is a great restaurant (lunch 12-4pm) on the beach near the pool with a bar and there is waitress service for your drinks around the pool from around 10.30am to 5pm - always smiling and helpful but doesn't earn much so tipping again is really appreciated. The bar shut at 7pm in our first week but we found in our second week the hotel was quieter so they started to shut the bar at 4pm - this did not go down too well as we like to have a drink and swim after scuba diving in the afternoon. We complained and they sorted it out and kept the bar open so be aware of this if you go during quieter times. You pay for the same service as everyone else during busy times.
The hotel staff are very friendly and helpful and we found the food to be fine - we enjoyed the Mediterranean restaurant the most and had a good Filet Mignon in the steak house - we are not pizza lovers but we ate there once and it was okay - the buffet restaurant was fine - just one or two nights where we felt a bit limited on choice and do check which restaurants are open with the front desk as one or two nights they shut the buffet restaurant and if you're not booked into the others you either have to wait or eat pizza - or of course go out to town! We mostly enjoyed the beach restaurant during the day as we found the fresh fish really nice and some nice salad and fresh bread etc. If you go out to San Miguel - we'd recommend Casa Mission - your taxi driver will take you direct and if he/she isn't busy they'll wait for you too ($15 each way for a couple). Casa Mission has a good reputation and doesn't cost an arm and a leg and the food was superb - we had traditional Mexican food there and loved it. As far as the rest of San Miguel goes we could take it or leave it really - during the day it's very much about the Cruise Ship tourists - and you'll need to check which day the ships are in if you prefer it quiet. The prices go up on these days also! We think you'd have a better time in the evening around the bars with a group of friends and you can get live music in some of the restaurants and bars so perhaps more traditional we think in the evening.
The hotel provides its version of a Concierge service and this is our biggest warning - they are really salesmen acting as concierges and what they want you to do is sign up to a meeting with another salesman on the compound who will show you some rooms - similar to yours and try to sell you a timeshare holiday package over 100 hundred years for the price of our house back home! Forget it - don't get involved. The concierges get commission only so will promise you money off vouchers etc for things like jeep hire and trips - it's not worth 2 hours of your holiday time - we think the max you'd get is about $30 off and frankly for £15 it's not worth the hassle. We know one holiday maker that got so sick of it he paid his concierge $10 to stay away! We think this is a great shame for the hotel - it's such a fantastic place they just don't need to hassle their customers. Anyway be up front and say no and if you get hassle tell them you are not happy and you will complain and they will leave you alone. It's no big deal just something to be aware of.
We did a few trips and did hire a jeep for a day which was great. On the island itself we'd recommend you go to Punta Sur - it's the south point of the island only a half hour down the road and there's a lighthouse their you can go up and see great views of the coastline - there's the lagoons at the back of the beach too which is interesting and then you go to spend some time on the beach which is just stunning. The water so blue and clear and the sand absolutely white - I could have spent all day there. Then go to the Reggae Bar just outside the entrance to Punta Sur - nice food, relaxing and plenty of entertainment reading all the t-shirts pinned up around the place. We were hot and sweaty and welcomed a cold beer and some lovely freshly cooked fish. Just great. We did go to the island's ruins further north too and they are spread out and quite interesting but not like the ones on the mainland. We were going to visit the Tequila factory close-by but saw a number of police around for some reason and we'd heard about someone being stopped on a moped in town and taken down a back street and asked if he'd had a beer which he had - he ended up paying up $60 to the cop as a back-hander so we thought better of going in and then coming out only to potentially get pulled. These things happen - best thing to do is avoid the situation we think.
Overall great holiday and I would go back - list below of things to consider for your wallet before you go!
Hire of gear for diving - you get some of it but wetsuits, weights and belts and regs are $6 each a day
Taxis to the town $15 per couple one way - the hotel is quiet at night - they try to entertain in the nightclub but it's not that lively so you might want the odd excursion into town at night
Ferry to mainland $10 each one way
Jeep Hire - up to $90 with decent insurance - unless you spend time with a salesman you might get $30 off!
Telephone home - don't go through the hotel - costs a fortune - best to email or get a phone card
On cruise ship days prices go up on the town but if you go into town when the ships aren't in make sure you get the right rate - we had a beer in town on a non-cruise ship day and they asked for $2 per beer - my partner said no too much and we paid $1 per beer - it's not a lot but the principal of the thing
Mosquito spray - we took roll on stuff from home - it didn't work - they sell 'Off!' in the hotel shop at $19 a can so buy it in town!
Tipping - we were careful at first as we did not want to offend our hosts but it is normal and the odd dollar here and there doesn't pinch too much. We did leave a decent amount for the pool waitress and the restaurant staff and for the bell boys and our activities hosts - they were the people that really made our holiday special and we would definitely go back.


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