Before anyone really knocks the Fiesta Americana, they should remember the devastation caused by Hurricane Wilma to the whole island of Cozumel in October of last year. It was only after we arrived and started driving around that we became aware of the true extent of the destruction. The inland and coastal tropical forest was stripped bare of foliage, killing most of the trees. The creeping vines and some of the more hearty varieties of softwoods are beginning to make a return, but the natural landscape still looks like its been through a blender, with the bleached and naked branches of dead trees eerily pointing skyward as the local buzzards wheel overhead.
Hotels along the battered west coast of Cozumel are working at a furious pace to rebuild in time for the coming winter high season so they can recoup some of their tremendous losses. As we motored south from San Miguel, we noticed that some hotel properties were so badly damaged that they have been abandoned. The concrete skeletons are all that remain of former happy places with palapa roofs and brightly colored awnings. Some will be rebuilt, but it's obvious that only the places with deep pockets are recovering quickly from the worst hurricane this place has seen in many decades.
The Fiesta Americana is one of those fortunate places where reconstruction was underway quickly. If you look at the private photos posted here of what the Fiesta Americana looked like in the days after Wilma and visit there today, you can't help but be impressed that somebody wanted this place up and running again as fast as possible. So any legitimate criticism must be tempered with mercy here. They've been through a rough time.
First off, you must understand that the FA is a scuba diving resort. If you don't dive, there are many other better places to stay on Cozumel offering more variety. For one thing, there is no nightlife whatsoever at the FA. If you like a little bar hopping and nighttime stroll around downtown San Miguel, it's a $7 US cab ride each way. Same with shopping. The little "tobacco shop" store on premises is sad, overpriced and under-stocked. You need to have your own rental jeep ($100 per day) or catch a cab just to hit the local supermercado, just south of the downtown square. Guests at the FA hit the sack early because most of them will be meeting the dive boats coming to pick them up at around 9 a.m. to take them south to the most popular reefs.
My son completed his open water diver training through Dive House, on premises, while we rented tanks and tooled around just off the pier in about 25 feet of water. Even that close in, there are rays, barracuda, eels, grouper and plenty of sea life to make our wait interesting. His instructor, Alfonso, was a first rate teacher, especially for youth, as he has kids of his own. The only thing bad about shore diving off the FA pier is that the current is a real smoker.
The Dive House rents up-to-date and very well maintained BCs and regulators. Because they are so popular, you should reserve ahead because their boat trips fill up fast. We had some shockingly unprofessional behavior and equipment malfunctions with our second choice "Dive with Martin," but I'll save the details for a different report. My advice: Go with Dive House.
A hotel is just a building, it's the people who make the property. The FA staff bend over backwards to please you -- even though when I see the behavior of a few ignorant, foul-mouthed Americans I wonder how the Mexican people can tolerate us at all. In the nearly two weeks we spent on Cozumel, each and every Mexican person we met, cab drivers, everyone, were helpful and kind. The FA maid staff and maintenance crew were at the door in just minutes if fresh towels were needed or any problems with drains or air conditioners arose.
So you've chosen the FA. Now should you get the All Inclusive? Actually, you're pretty much money ahead by doing so, even though you may buy a few meals elsewhere. FA is pretty far from anywhere. It's too far to go somewhere else for breakfast before diving and you are probably going to be too tired after diving to want to do much besides relax and have the buffet dinner and retire early in anticipation of the next reef exploration come morning. If there is one little gripe, it's the buffet food. You begin to see the same rotation after your third day. By day six, you can get downright depressed as you approach the serving line and see pretty much the same thing for dinner, over and over again. They need to work on that. Given the fact that they try so hard in other areas, I wonder why they don't pay more attention to the quality and variety of the food. Maybe it's because they have a captive clientele. In any case, someone needs to bring this to the attention of the management.
Some people tip regularly at all-inclusive places, others don't. I did see some evidence that some of the waiters treated people a little better if they routinely slipped them a few bucks a day, even though it's not required. But remember this: you have no idea how low their base wages actually are. So if your bus boy doesn't come around with the coffee as often as he might, you should think about sending a greenback his way now and again. Your cup will runeth over!
If you compare pre-hurricane photos of the front of the FA to the more recent ones, you'll notice that the arched pedestrian walkway over the road has vanished. So have the palapa-roofed eating areas. They've been replaced with concrete structures with terracotta tile roofs.
As a previous visitor just remarked, these are open areas dependent totally upon the sea breezes to keep you cool. During these mid-summer visits, it's quite frankly just too danged hot. July and August temperatures make dining outdoors less appetizing, especially with flies occasionally swarming about the tables. I'm hoping the FA management has budgeted for some dinning room air conditioning. The only place to really cool off is to go back to your room. Even the swimming pools have water too warm to actually cool you off. While there are palapas for shade, the hotel could sure use some umbrellas around the pool lounge chairs. The unrelenting sun is brutal without some shade.
Kids? Outside of letting children make their fun around the pool all day, there is little else for them to do. We noticed a sort of kids' activities center in the lobby, but it mostly remained closed and dark. At around 2:30 every afternoon, a recreation director starts up some games around the main pool, including a horse race game and bingo, but they encourage knocking back shots of tequila -- not exactly what you want your teenagers to be doing on a hot afternoon in Mexico or anywhere else.
Beds. Mexico is blessed in so many ways, but not its beds. One good thing about the hurricane was that it blew in most of the windows, saturating the 4-inch mattresses with sea water so they had to be thrown away. You may be lucky enough to get a room with almost new, American-style box springs mattresses. If so, hang on to that room. You may not be so lucky if you switch. Some people like sleeping on a concrete platform with four inches of foam rubber. I'm not one of them.
Would I go back to the FA? Yes and no. It's probably the best in class down on the southwest end of the island. It's a shorter boat ride to Palancar for divers than any of the resorts near town. If all you are going to do is dive, dive, dive and go home, I'd say yes it's a great deal. But we felt that the food was just too monotonous and there was absolutely nothing to do there at night that didn't involve swilling liquor. We spent enough on taxis that it might have come out the same if we'd have rented a jeep for the week or ten days of our stay.
In the end, I'd say we had a very positive experience overall and it was well-worth the price, even with the boring food fare. If they fix that, and it gets reported here that the food has improved, we'll be back again soon, I'm sure.