My wife and just returned from a wonderful one-week vacation over Christmas (22-29 Dec 07) to Oaxaca. This small city (and the surrounding villages) offers extraordinary shopping for handicrafts (weaving, embroidery, pottery, woodcarvings), fine dining as well as many regional dining opportunities, and fascinating archeological and religious sightseeing. There are many decent to excellent small hotels and bed & breakfasts located in or within a few blocks of the main square (Zocalo), all within walking distance of the main shopping, museums, galleries, sights, markets, and nightlife (we stayed at Casa Oaxaca -see my comments there).

This is a walking town, with one main boulevard from the shopping area to the Zocalo pedestrian-only...we walked in safety throughout the Centro area on local streets to the markets, shops and restaurants. Architecture is varied, but mostly colonial and early 20th century. The main square and plaza in front of the church bustles with activity all day into the late evening. It is surrounded by street level cafes and restaurants, perfect for people-watching. We enjoyed impromptu concerts, jugglers, clowns, and we particularly appreciated that the zocalo was a focus of the city, always filled with locals sunning and strolling with their families. (I also got the greatest shoeshine in my life there!)

Since we were there over Christmas, we were able to participate in the "Festival of Radishes", celebrating the ingenuity and wit of local radish sculptors (no joke!) who fashioned and carved radishes of all types and sizes into scenarios both sacred and profane. The exhibit in the Zocalo on 23 December was attended by thousands and must be seen to be believed. We also enjoyed the many church processions on Christmas Eve, where every local church sent a "float" - usually a large flat-bed truck - displaying highly decorated nativity scenes with the players (kings, shepherd, angels,etc.) portrayed by costumed children- proceeded by a brass band playing carols, Sousa, mariachi. These processions slowly wended their way from the various churches, converging on the Zocalo, leaving snarled traffic in their wakes...but making for a unique and happy celebration.

The city proper is easily navigated and "deciphered"...there are excellent free tourist maps available, the streets and addresses are well-marked, and there are "tourist police" available to lend a hand. We highly recommend that you secure a copy of "Oaxaca Tips" by Carole Turkenik (we got ours in Oaxaca at a local book store)...it is filled with great info on local shopping, dining, sights, and museums...we found that her judgment was pretty much on the mark all of the time - though often at odds with the standard guides.

There are several worthwhile archeological sites nearby, of which Monte Alban is the most magnificent. It is no more than a half hour by cab from the city - on a mountain overlooking the town. We would recommend a guide for Monte Alban - - we used Jorge Cruz, an anthropology major - to get the most out of your visit - plan to spend at least two hours there.

Much of the joy of visiting Oaxaca came from forays to the small local villages in the surrounding valley. Many of the communities specialize in a single handicraft: weaving in Teotitlan de Valle, black pottery in San Bartolo de Coyotepec...the guide books give lists of specialties. We also went to local weekly markets...the Friday market in Ocotlan was particularly large and varied: the produce was magnificent and the energy was high.

For visiting the surrounding valley towns, we especially recommend a local guide, Roberto Gavidia, who can be contacted through his website (google him). Roberto put together three well-thought-out half-day itineraries for us which included visits to the best artisans (often in their home studios), the most interesting local markets, and the best local restaurants. Roberto ferried us in an air-conditioned Chevy Suburban - his driving was safe and his English is very good. We never felt any obligation to buy from the craftsman we visited (although we DID buy from some...their work was too magnificent to pass up).

We had read about recent (August 2006) political unrest and also that things had settled down since that blowup. Based on the recent positive posts we read in TripAdvisor, we went to Oaxaca anyway, and we are happy we did. All of the locals told us that the horrible impact of that strike on the local economy had chastened - even "horrified" - all sides of the controversy and that the entire community was working together to bring back Oaxaca's reputation. Well, their efforts are working. Other than graffiti, we saw no evidence of any outstanding political unrest. In fact, we were totally charmed by the city and the people.

Oaxaca, while once again beginning to thrive, is not a wealthy town. We saw evidence of poverty, including beggars and closed shops. The countryside is also somewhat desolate (and unzoned!) - we were there during the dry season, so there was not much green except where fields were irrigated.

But there is a special "vibe" that comes from the locals...we could sense a real pride in their city and their traditions...it made quite an impact on us.

While the town is very friendly and very user-friendly, we would not recommend Oaxaca for a trip with young children...while the weather is temperate, it isn't really a sit-around-the pool-type experience...it is a get-up-and-go-for-a-walk town. And if what you seek is a hard partying nightlife - yes there are bars, but this isn't Cabo or Cancun.

But it IS a great destination for knowledgeable grownups who enjoy immersing themselves into the local culture and traditions.

We certainly understand why many of the other tourists we met from around the world have returned again and again to Oaxaca.

Go!

In the summer of 2004 I adventure myself for the first time to visit Latin America. My first destination, Oaxaca, Mexico. This is because I have a friend of mine who live in Huajapan de Leon. So we coordinate and met for the first time and tour varios places in the Oaxaca surroundings.

Places like Monte Alban, Santiago de Apoala, Nochixtlan, Oaxaca, Santiago de Mattlatan (Home of the Mezcal). It was a great experience, specially the visit to Montel Alban, the Archeological site in Oaxaca and named World Patrimony by the UNESCO in 1982.

Of great interest is the Tule tree, a live Sabino with more than 2,000 years of age and as high as more than 40 meters. Is hughe, see to believe. You can see it at Santa Maria del Tule municipality,

Oaxaca shines for its mid 1500 (16th Century) cathedrals, churches and convents. Among them I can mention the Basilica Menor de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, the Santo Domingo Church and Convent, the ex-Convento of Santiago Apostol (it was never finished). The retablos or altars of these magestic buidlings are awesome. The retablo of the Santo Domingo church is made of pure gold that have survive for centuries... a jewel in itself.

The little town of Santiago de Apoala will bring you all the peace and quite to relax yourself in an ambience of tranquility and hospitality. They have a small hotel or "posada" very neat and clean. I stay one night for only $8 per night. Great value. And Santiago de Apoala is a MUST see location.

If you visit Oaxaca, try to plan your trip by July to be in time for the Gulaguetza Festival. A fair with dances, costumes, tyical dresses and Oaxaca folklore.

I visited Oaxaca with a friend who lives there. You will never get the same experience if you traveled with a tour package. If in your own, you will need to rent a car with unlimited mileage and a Oaxaca map in order to see all the glamour and charms that Oaxaca offers to its visitors.

If you visit Mexico, and never been in Oaxaca, you never been in Mexico.

My wife and I returned from a tour of Mexico on Feb. 8, having spent 4 days in Oaxaca. We saw almost no evidence of what had taken place there last year and the place seemed almost exactly like it was 5 years ago when we were last there. In some locations, we did see some graffiti, but not in the main downtown areas. We stayed at the Hostal de la Noria. The hotel is located very near the socalo and very comfortable, with Old Mexico charm. Our tour guide, a native, gave us his version of the events; he felt the teachers were at fault for asking for much more than they deserve.
I wouldn't hesitate to return at any time and stay for much longer.
We stayed in Mexico City, San Cristobal, Palenque, Merida and Cancun and I felt safer on those streets at night than I do in Seattle, Tacoma or Chicago, etc.

Spent 8 Jan 07 days in Oaxace not knowing what to expect. Discovered a wonderful city with warm, friendly people. The recient press stories of unrest accented the negative and said nothing about the positive. The local economy has suffrered terribly with people put of work and businesses closing. Tourists and travelers who do not go to Oaxaca are bypassing a wonderful experience. The area is in the center of the Zopetec prehistoric cultural development. Mounte Alban, of which only 5% has been excavated, was home to over 20,000 indians during is habitation from 600 BC to 1200 AD. It was here, long before the Aztecs, Mayans, and Incas, that a written language developed, astrological calanders were made and observatories constructed. In addition a type of Portland cement was developed and utilized for mortar.
Local communities around Oaxaca have passed down from generation to generation the arts of weaving, painting, mescal fermentation, wood carving, and clay figure making. Ouir hosts, Thorny and Jane, owners of the Casa Colonial Inn, kept us busy for 7 days and my wife and I lookforward to our return to Oaxaca as we only scratched the surface of the wonders the area offers.