I just returned from GDL (10/14-10/29) and I loved every minute of the trip. I stayed at Hotel Morales (great location, architecture and wood floors) in Centro Historico area. I ate birria at Las 9 Esquinas , tortas at Torta Loca in Mercado Libertad, carne en su jugo at Garabaldi, ice cream (12 pesos) corner of Juan Manuel & Calle 7 near Parque Morelos.
Exchange your dollars to pesos on Av. Lopez Cotilla (between Corona & Maestranza). Buy your jewelry on Av. Republica where there are many jewelry centers (convert inches to metric before looking). I bought three 14K necklaces (13.3 gr total) for my daughters for $2221 pesos. I probably could have bargained more.
Many of the historical sites are within walking distance of Hotel Morales. For visits not within walking distance, take the bus whenever possible (usually 4 pesos).
At Mercado Libertad I usually paid 70% of initial asking price except for food items. Tonala and Tlaquepaque are also great shopping experiences. In Tonala, I bought a bag for 30 pesos to carry my purchases. I had photos made from my memory stick at Color Express on Corona 190 at very reasonable prices. I was able to call the US for 1 peso per minute at Maestranza 175 (near Lopez Cotilla). Internet, printing and fax services were also available. Ciel was the best tasting bottled water at 10 pesos for 1.5 liter. My favorite snack was 4 tacos and horchata for 23 pesos at Tacos Plaza
Went to 2 soccer games, bullfight, and Lucha Libre. I left my room by 9am and didn't return until 10pm. I felt safe and never needed a windbreaker jacket. October is a good month because of Fiestas de Octubre where there is free entertainment (music/ballet folklorico) many nights throughout the month.
What impressed me most about GDL is the the friendliness of the people and their good tasting food.
My only regret is I didn't arrive before Oct 12 to see the procession honoring Our Lady of Zapopan at Basilica Zapopan
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.