WE ABSOLUTELY LOVED THE PLACE! (Myself, my wife, and my two twenty-something daughters). But - to enjoy it, you really need to understand what it is, and what it isn't. For many of you, a trip here will be be the fulfillment of your imagination of what a trip to the "Old Bahamas" on one of the "out" islands not yet corrupted by giant Cruise Boats, Casinos, and high-rise mega-hotels should be like. The resort is small, but it has a beautiful small yacht harbor and several extensive, entirely uncrowded, gorgeous beaches, and the limited number of available tasteful two-story condo accomodations are very nice too. Oh yes, the resort has a very knowledgeable divemaster and fishing charter trip operator on-staff, with suitable boats and equipment. But um...there's but ONE cafe/restaurant on-premises (and nothing else within 20 miles), and it's pretty darn good, but the available menu is fairly limited.
SO for others of you, the isolation and limited available services and facilities will be a disappointment, and you should head to Atlantis instead - did I mention that the resort is isolated at the end of a peninsula ten miles from the nearest local village (without any real services or facilities there) and twenty miles from the nearest town (Rock Sound) that DOES have any facilities? (Such as the puddle-jumper airport you'll need to use to fly into here if you don't arrive via private yacht, also ONE bank (with ATM) and ONE small grocery store catering to staples for locals, not gourmet items for tourists), but there's a couple of liquor/beer stores. NO NIGHTLIFE WHATSOEVER, either at the resort or in town. Only thing going on is drinking a few beers at the resort cafe before turning in sometime between 10 and 11pm each night.
AND SO what you do, after you fly into Rock Sound Airport on a 6-seater or 12-seater puddle-jumper Bahamian airline is: you either hire a "taxi" to take you to Powell Pointe ($50 to $70 one way) OR...you rent a car from (not Hertz, not Avis)...but, a dude who hangs out at the airport for the week you're there. Let's just say that the car rental experience here will be TOTALLY unlike ANY you've ever done before in a way that's very disquieting and thrillingly nice at the same time. I truly don't want to spoil the experience for you, so 'nuff said, let's just say, bring cash or visit the ATM to pay the car rental dude - don't worry, it's legit and EVERYONE knows EVERYONE ELSE out here. Oh, and the slightly rusty sedan or van you'll get will be part of the "old Bahamas" experience, and allow you to get about and see things beyond the resort (very worthwhile).
BACK TO THE RESORT: Things to do:
- Be sure to go on at least one dive trip with Neal (a true dive expert, and because you're in the Bahamas, not the states, and lack of any experience is no problem - Neal has a special shallow (under 20 ft depth) reef-dive trip available for neophytes wanting to sample diving safely.
- Be sure to "float the cut" with snorkel gear- there's a half-mile long channel from an inlet on one side to the yacht harbor on the other, which looks unremarkable from fifty feet away on land, but is actually full of tropical fish, urchins, even a couple of nurse sharks as you enter the boat harbor...can't remember if it's the incoming or outgoing tide that makes the current flow from inlet to yacht basin, but it carries you along effortlessly, and you simply walk back to the starting point and do it all over again. DELIGHTFUL!
- STEVE, the resort manager, will take you on your first day there on a jeep tour of the quite extensive properties (the developed resort is part of a ten-mile long tract covering an entire narrow peninsula) that includes some spectacular headlands and forest and some cleared areas that are actualy over the ruins of a failed 70-s-early 80s era very fancy resort that was abruptly abandoned (for reasons Steve will tell you about) and quickly went to complete ruin and was overgrown by jungle.
- Walk or drive out to any of the many isolated beaches (with empty lounge chairs waiting just for you), many of which offer good snorkeling when the tide's right, or are simply gorgeous to look out over when it's not.
- Take the drive the length of Eleutera Island to Harbor Island (the one "chi chi" town where the likes of Richard Gere and Heidi Klum sometimes hang out). VERY scenic in many places, spectacular ocean views intermittently.
- Just hang out at your condo, which is very tastefully and comfortably appointed, and read books and drink coffee in the morning, and beer in the afternoon.
Oh, BTW there is only ONE television channel (not a very good one) available. So bring lots of good reading material. Promise - you won't mind the lack of tv, it's so beautiful here, especially the sunrises and sunsets. And the people who come here seem to all be fun and relaxed and friendly.
ONE MORE THING: this being the out-islands, the natives are relaxed and friendly, and haven't (yet), at least most of them, developed an "attitude" or "hustle" approach to tourists. Treat the locals with respect, and they seem to do so likewise, to my experience while there.
AGAIN, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS.