Stayed in the tower room at the Speyside Inn, which has a rather spectacular view eastwards across the bay. Unfortunately, the weather was rather mixed due to the time of year, but there was still more than enough sunshine to develop a healthy bronzey.

The room was clean and comfortable, the staff friendly, and, thanks to Christian the German chef, the food in the hotel was pretty good. In addition to the usual staple hotel menu items such as steak etc., there was plenty of fresh local fish to be had (and even a little tuna sashimi - a novelty for T&T, where they tend to serve all their fish very well-done).

This is, in truth, just as well, as the options for dining elsewhere in Speyside are pretty limited, apart from the redoubtable Jemma's tree-top restaurant, which serves a daily-changing lunch menu of local seafood, but, alas, no booze.

However, the main point about the Speyside Inn is the scuba diving, which is great. The hotel (like the others here) has a dive school attached, and the local reef and aquatic life are spectacular - they have the world's largest brain coral here, don't you know (it's about 12' in diameter).

But if you don't like snorkelling, diving or reading by the pool (the beach is only about 6' wide), then you would probably find the lack of other diversions hereabouts a drawback. There are, oddly, no other watersports in evidence, apart from the odd local surfing. That said, if you have a car, it could be a good base for exploring other local attractions such as the rainforest reserve and the waterfall (agree the price with your guide first, though!).