This was our first trip to the Caribbean. We were celebrating George's 65th (Medicare eligible) birthday and President's Day. After much research we selected Firefly Cottages. We couldn't have been more pleased. When we returned home we were not too surprised to find that it was listed in a Sunday Washington Post Travel Section feature article on the Caribbean as a recommended place to stay in Negril, Jamaica.
After a short non-stop champagne flight on Air Jamaica from BWI Airport in Maryland we arrived at Montego Bay and waited in customs lines almost as long as we were in the air. Fortunately, Firefly had arranged for Mr. Jerry to pick us up in his taxi and he was patiently waiting for us outside. It seemed everybody at the airport knew Mr. Jerry and Firefly. No hassles once we mentioned his name. He whisked us out of the airport after making sure we had something to drink (Red Stripe for George, bottled water for Michelle) for the hour plus ride. The poverty we saw along the road was a bit of a downer, but we soon realized that without tourists like us folks in Negril like Mr. Jerry would be in even worse condition. He stopped in a food shop in Negril to let us stock our cottage kitchen with some Blue Mountain coffee, rum cream, and other essentials. Cottage #5 was a delight with double bed, kitchen with sink, four burner stove with oven, full refrigerator, cookware, dinnerware, dining area, chest and wardrobe, and a full bath with a hot shower big enough for two (nice!), air conditioning, louvered windows, and a ceiling fan over the bed. A private full sized verandah was enclosed by grillwork and locked door. It had a lounge couch, two reading chairs, and a table with two chairs for outside dining; all enclosed by flowering garden bushes. The staff stopped by every day to clean and straighten the cottage. They even made sure we had candles and matches during a brief Negril power outage on Sunday night following an unusually hot day. (Drinking by candle light at the bar with the other guests was a fun experience.)
Our first night at Firefly Michelle made George famous (or infamous) when she had Mr. Sykes, the owner, the security guard, and several others looking for him. She thought he had gone for a swim when he had actually gone for a long walk down the beach. For the rest of the week George was known as "Da Mon who made da nice lady cry." Despite the embarrassment it was reassuring to know the staff was so concerned about their guests. We felt completely secure all week, day and night.
We hung around the beach for most of our stay, Michelle in her swimsuit and George in his birthday suit (after all it was his birthday.) A few folks walking by Firefly did a double take when they saw the guest skinny dipping and sunbathing nude. Topless is fairly common on Long Bay, but Firefly is the only place except for all-inclusives like Hedonism II that permits nudity. The bar (which requires at least a thong for service) let us run a tab and we settled up when we checked out. We also rented a float for the week, called our son on the 24 hour international phone outside the office, rented some Internet time to send a "everything is fine" e-mail to our family, and tried out the hot tub a few nights. The seawater was great, clear, about 80 degrees F, with light surf. We met many repeat guests, including three single men who stayed in the "Secrets" cabins. They helped us get acclimated to Negril. The get acquainted bonfire party on the beach Tuesday night with popcorn and rum punch was very enjoyable. We made our own Blue Mountain coffee with Rum Cream each morning because we liked to get up early before the bar opened at 8:00 AM for coffee and breakfast. The bar pancakes were the best we have ever had anywhere. And the fruit lady walked by the cottages and out to the bar every morning. One morning we bought a fresh pineapple, which she cut up for us. It lasted three days. Rose, another vendor, ran a fruit and vegetable stand about 100 yards up the beach where we bought fresh squeezed orange juice in recycled rum bottles several mornings. It was much sweeter and less acidic than Florida or California juice.
We went on a few excursions, including a Valentine's Day evening boat ride to the cliffs for snorkeling/swimming in the caves. Red Stripe, rum drinks, soft drinks, and jerk chicken with rice were included. We also had dinner at the Rockhouse and Xtabi on the cliffs. Good food and sunsets both nights. We walked up to Margaritaville for some lunches and dinners. Good atmosphere, food, drinks, and service at reasonable prices. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner next door at Coco La Palm were also good and reasonable. We went on a small shopping spree in West End and ate lunch at Pirate's Cove on the Cliffs while a ring Michelle bought was being sized. We took some beautiful digital pictures of snorkeling boats in the turquoise water. We even took a day trip ($65 each, 10 AM to 5 PM) to Hedonism II to see what all the raving was about. We spent a relaxing late morning and afternoon around the clothing optional pool on the nude side. We never saw self service Pina Colada and Daiquiri machines before. No one hassled Michelle for keeping her suit on. The guests were friendly and playfully well behaved. We shared a picnic table for lunch at the beach grill with a nice young couple who was there for the first time. We left early when it clouded up and started to sprinkle. The grounds at Hedo II are beautiful and well kept, but the resort is large and a little overwhelming. We were glad to return to the relaxed intimacy of Firefly.
Credit cards, US$, or AMEX Travelers Checks were always accepted. There was a Cambio about 15 minutes down the beach from Firefly that exchanged Jamaican$ for US$ or Travelers Checks. Mr. Jerry or another licensed taxi was always at the entrance of Firefly literally within seconds of our appearance to take us anywhere and bring us back for very reasonable fares. Several of our drivers walked us into our destination to make sure we would be taken care of properly before they left. We met some wonderful Jamaicans, including vendors on the beach who always accepted "no," or "not now," for an answer. Michelle bought some lovely Pareos for friends and George bought a Jamaican flag towel from Ron, a vendor who set up in a vacant lot next door. We were made to feel most welcome by the Franciscan pastor and parishioners at the 9:30 AM Mass on Sunday at Mary, Gate of Heaven, Catholic Church, right across the street from Firefly.
After checking out on Thursday we had lunch at Margaritaville before Mr. Jerry drove us back to the airport. We missed "the snow storm of the century" which had shut down most of the East Coast that week. Talk about timing!
There were a few things we planned to do that we never got around to, but that just gives us an excuse to go back. We are already saving our money for another President's Day vacation at Firefly and maybe Hedonism II as well. Next time we would like to try the beachside Penthouse suite. Thanks Mr. Jerry, Nicola, and everyone else for a wonderful vacation in beautiful Negril.
We can provide a link to some of our trip photos to anyone who sends us an e-mail request.
George and Michelle 13-20 Feb. 2003
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.