Just got back from a wonderful trip to Dominica. Some of the best diving, especially macro diving, I have ever done. We home based in Portsmouth at the northern end of the island, and dove with Cabrits dive center. They were outstanding, especially dive master Kaj. Sites were close, Kaj found the critters we wanted to see, water and weather were great.
The island is beautiful, natural. We hiked in rain forests, saw rivers and waterfalls, saw rare animals and plants, and hardly touched the surface of outdoor things to do.
Stayed at Picard Beach Cottages. It's one of the highest rated accomodations on the island, but is still nothing like resorts of more westernized islands. Toilet didn't work for 2 days and other little glitches, but comfortable and central to the things we wanted to do. Best place we ate was Sisters restauraunt at Sea Sisters Lodge. We did rent a 4xWheel drive; the driving was scary but we got used to it.
Don't come here and expect fast food, no bugs, super cleanliness and modern conveniences. Not going to happen. But if you're a diver, and love the outdoors, and want to experience an entirely different culture, this is a wonderful place. We'ed go back in a minute!