The Beltran de Santa Cruz on Calle San Ignacio in old Havana is hard to find because it does not look like a hotel. The entrance is via a huge studded wooden door set in an alleyway wall which leads you directly into the reception area. The ground floor rooms, spacious and airy all face out onto a central courtyard set with wrought iron tables and chairs. The upper rooms have a wide balcony overlooking the courtyard where guests can sit if they are not inclined to decend the wide stone staircase- after all this is Havana and there is no need to do anything but chill out. Each room has little shuttered windows facing the courtyard, tiled floors, bathroom en-suite, wash basin and mirror in the bedroom, air conditioning and tv. The twin beds are large and comfortable and the house maids do a great job and are very friendly. The staff are wonderfull although like people anywhere you get what you deserve! Micheal the 'manager' became like a good friend and could not do enough to help from taking us to get our hired car to escorting us to various places. He knew of course that we were experts at getting lost. The atmosphere in the hotel was a bit like living in a private house, some chinese guests even availed themselves of the kitchen and did their own cooking. The narrow streets in the area are unlit except for the light coming from numerous windows and there are always throngs of people moving about at all times of day and night. Slightly intimidating at first untill you realise that everyone smiles, respond to 'ohla' and go out of their way to be helpfull. We walked about at night and felt perfectly safe, although it would be prudent not to walk about dripping with gold being a mug! The hotel is a great place to start a self drive holiday and the ideal return to point before flying back home. The food is not at all bad and the prices are reasonable. Above aveage in some respects, excellent in others it all depends on what you want and at Beltran de Santa Cruz you are certainly not insulated from ordinary Cubans which is just what we wanted. I nearly forgot the two frienly parrots who if they take a shine to you will walk over to your table at breakfast to say goodmorning. With hurracane Ivan on the way and our friends in Scotland thinking we were mad we were safe, secure and very well cared for. no problemo!