When I first started looking, you could get a an all-inclusive 7-day package for $200. I hesitated for a week and ended up paying $300. That's still pretty cheap! I would not pay more than that.
I read the reviews on Trip Advisor and they diverged wildly from ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE to I HAD A WONDERFUL TIME. I wondered how people could have such totally different experiences, and figured it was a question of different expectations, different standards and different holiday goals.
I figured that if I went expecting an absolute hellhole, food poisoning, hookers and hustlers everywhere, no shuttle service and watered down drinks - basically my worst nightmare, that at worst I would not be disappointed. I was going alone and wanted to spend all of my time in Havana, so as long as the beach was nice I didn't care so much about the resort. As a touring musician, I've stayed in some motels that would curdle your blood so I felt prepared.
My flight down on Air Transat was good, but incredibly cramped - as I suppose most planes are these days. When I got to the Varadero airport everything was very fast and smooth, which was a pleasant surprise after my previous experience in Holguin. There was just me and one other guy taking a shuttle to Playa Del Este and so they put us in a small cab. It took longer than I expected but was a peaceful ride.
After a good check-in experience, where I was offered a key to the room safe at no charge I headed up to my fourth floor room. It was as I expected not especially nice but not terrifying either - no crazy spiders, cockroaches, etc - just some ants but they looked harmless enough.
I checked for bedbugs and was nervous that I had found them ( I've never seen them so.. ) but after 7 days in the room I had no problems so clearly I was wrong. But that first nights sleep was pretty edgy.
Anyway, the room was nothing fancy - small beds that turned out to actually be more comfortable for my back than my brand new $700 Sealy at home. But no fitted sheets - this was my major complaint - every morning you wake up with the sheets all asunder.
There was a tiny little tv but it had a working remote control and they got HBO and a few other American channels which I enjoyed on the few nights that I came home early enough to bother turning on the tv.
The electricity all worked fine - lots of lights everywhere and no troubles. The air conditioning wasn't great - in terms of noise and not especially cool air, but air conditioning wasn't ultra necessary when I was there so no trouble. One problem was that the area around the air conditioner was not well sealed and so when we had a mini hurricane I had flooding.
My shower was fine - no trouble whatsoever with hot water. Although the shower was no longer mounted on the wall - I assume it had been originally. It was ok - I just held it and that did the trick. You ought to bring some nice toiletry stuff - they provide some soap and shampoos but they don't look super appealing. I was glad to have brought a bar of English Lavender for the shower.
I threw my stuff in the closet which in theory locks but due to age or poor design you could just pull it open anyway. I had no problems as far as I know anyway. I carried my valuables in a money belt most of the time anyway.
After checking out my room I sussed out the hotel - it was a pretty dead scene - all older single men chatting with each other in the 24-hour bar and the "disco" was deader than a doornail . I had no desire to get involved in that "sausage party" - being a lone wolf anyway - so I just grabbed a shot of low-end rum - Havana Club was conspicuously absent from the bar, as was coke and beer etc - and he had soft drink machines filled with scary looking mixes for what I assumed were eg daiquiri and etc.
So I just took straight rum and headed for the really pleasant quiet patio outdoors with palm trees and lots of adorable little birds in cages.
The next morning I didn't even bother with the Tropicoco breakfast - it looked scary. I headed for the beach and it was heavenly. I didn't experience the whole hooker/hustler thing at all. Just endless beautiful beach, gorgeous water and palm trees. Heaven! Although as you walk away from the resort a fair distance the beach is a bit unkempt in places with a dead goat/dog in one spot and some glass and garbage littering the beach in other spots. No big deal.
After a few hours I grabbed a cab into Havana for $15. Always check in Havana that the price will be $15. They will try to charge $20, you can just tell them $15 then walk away when they won't do it - they'll chase after you and say ok ok.
So I basically just used Tropicoco as a bed at night and an amazing beach in the mornings, then had a great time checking out Havana. On my last day I ate breakfast in the cafeteria - I watched the girl peeling fruit before my eyes so I knew it was fresh, and the grapefruit juice was killer diller! The bread was stale-ish but the cheese was great. The espresso rocked my world - one of the best shots I've ever had! I checkout out the dingy a la carte in the basement for lunch - the pizza was ok but the grilled chicken was ghastly and I felt bad a chicken had to die to make that atrocity. I couldn't eat it and just ran out after leaving a little tip for the waiter. I coudn't believe how long it took to make such a lacklustre meal!
There was an old man with an INCREDIBLY HOT girl (hooker!?) who looked like she could have been VERY underage. I was kinda creeped out especially because there was no discretion - he was fawning all over her in a pretty crude manner - otherwise I would MAYBE have assumed it was his daughter or granddaughter. So I guess there is that element of old men and hookers that the other reviewers speak of but because I didn't spend so much time around the resort I didn't really notice it.
Around the resort there are some restaurants and bars and you can walk to the town of Guanaboa.
For the shuttle back they were two hours late and I had to call to get things rolling. The taxi driver was incredibly slow getting us there and I ended up losing one of my suitcases when I got to Montreal. It's been three days now and it still has not showed up. If at all possible, just bring a carry on to avoid this kind of hassle.
So for me Tropicoco was a pretty great time - I came expecting the worst but I knew that I had barely even paid for my airfare let alone 7 days in a resort so I was actually pleasantly surprised. If you just want a place to lay your head - can tolerate some minor/major problems and roll with it and you want the best of both worlds - a great beach and checking out Havana - then you may be actually pleasantly surprised by your vacation at the Tropicoco.
But for a romantic couple or a family, for older couples etc that have high standards and don't have experience with sketchy places who are looking for a "Cuban 5-star beach resort" where they are just going to hang around the resort, drink the drinks, eat the food, stay in the lobby, enjoy their room, and enjoy the nightlife - then AVOID AT ALL COSTS. THIS WILL BE YOUR WORST NIGHTMARE AND A LIVING HELL. But for younger people with high tolerance for unpredictable situations - you can get a great bargain and have an AWESOME TIME. And if you totally can't deal with the Tropicoco - if you spent as little as I did then you could even just stay at a nice casa particular in Havana for not much more - if not less - than a cab ride to Havana and back!


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