My wife and I just returned from Cocobay a few days ago. We are both 31 and American, but my wife is more of a "pamper me silly" type of traveler, while I am more of a "do it yourself" type. I chose Cocobay after reading nearly all of the reviews here at TripAdvisor.
My wife was extremely worried about several things: bugs, the weather, the lack of AC, and the food. I was more concerned with just getting away from it all and having a nice, quiet 10-day escape on the beach. I can happily report that all of our fears were allayed and our desires satisfied.
Many reviewers complained about the absence of screens on the windows. In fact, we brought our own mesh screening as a precaution. Cocobay has screened all of the windows (except the bathroom, oddly) and bugs were not a problem in our seaview room (cottage #37). We tacked screening on the bathroom window, "deeted up" each night with 98% deet gel, and used plug-in mosquito repellants. I had about 3-4 bites in 9 nights and my wife had about 17 (she refused to use deet until the final 2 nights). Our mosquito net had no holes and we did not need the clips that we brought with us. As for the feared Antiguan horse spider and the scorpions, we never saw a single one.
The lack of AC was no problem as it was relatively cool at night when we were there - around 70 F. We actually pulled up the covers some nights as it was a little chilly.
The AI food was fine...neither terrific nor awful. Breakfast was solid, with offerings of croissants, sausage, bacon, fruit salad, yogurt and eggs made to order (the egg line was too long at times, tho). Lunch was hit or miss. The burgers were ok, but I found that the fish was usually undercooked a bit. Dinners were varied and interesting, using many local ingredients and spices. The desserts were above average. Service was excellent throughout our stay - friendly and usually expedient. We didn't come across any surly servers. Courtesy and polite conversation went a long way with our servers, we found.
The beaches were my main concern. To say that I was not disappointed would be a major understatement. The beaches were astonishingly beautiful. Bring a camera and take many photos. The scenery makes any fool with a lens look like Ansel Adams. My entire office is now using my digital photos as screensavers and desktop wallpapers. The main beach (the one with the watersports and beachchairs) was wonderful. I played with the kayaks, sunfish sailboats, and the scuba gear and all were worth using at least once (you should have a little sailing experience, tho, to deal with gusts or still winds). However, be sure to go to neighboring Freye beach at least once. When we went there, it was practically deserted. The sand is more even, more fine, and the water a tad more calm. Also, I recommend signing up for a ride on a waverunner at least once. You can sign up with one of the many locals who will glide by and ask you if you want to ride for about $50 for a half hour. Sure it's kind of tacky and touristy, but we had a fun time trying to turn hard enough to throw ourselves off. We also signed up for the horseback tour and found it very worthwhile.
A few extra tidbits:
1. We brought a portable DVD player and watched a movie one night to pass the time before dinner (you have to sign up for a dinner slot and if you sign up later in the day, you end up eating at 9:00pm). The rooms have US-style plugs, so everything we needed to charge (DVD, iPod, mosquito thingies) worked fine.
2. Our bathroom had poor drainage when using the shower. Bring shower shoes. It's a minor nuisance, but worth mentioning.
3. Use tons of sunscreen of at least SPF 30. My wife got burned on the first day using only SPF 15. Re-apply after swimming.
4. Earplugs might also be of use if you are a light sleeper. We had an array of bugs, frogs, birds, and a herd of goats wake us at various times.
5. Great place for animal-spotters and flower lovers. During our trip, we came into close proximity with pelicans, some kind of egret, finches, baby hummingbirds, a snake, countless lizards, the aforementioned goats, a mongoose, and as many colorful flowers as one could imagine.
6. Bring quite a bit of cash. Taxis are expensive and you'll need them to go out to eat, visit St. John, etc. The ATMs in St. John and Jolly Harbor were out of service when we desperately needed them.
7. Speaking of taxis, ask for Benji. Great guy. Saved our butts on a couple of occasions when we needed xportation in a hurry. Ask in advance during the weekends, tho.
8. According to our non-scientific survey, about two-thirds of the guests were English-speakers and the rest not. Very few Americans. Many Brits, Italians, Dutch, Danish, and a few Germans.
The only sour note of the entire trip was that, on our last day, we were attacked by no-see-ums or some kind of sand flea or sand mite. We didn't feel the bites until the plane ride home. In the 2-3 days after returning, we got whacked by dozens of itchy bites. After doing everything but brush our teeth with Benadryl lotion, the bites improved, but it was tough. Still, we'd go back to Antigua in a heartbeat and the Cocobay.
Special thanks to Elizabeth and Lisa at reception, and to the superb, friendly housecleaning staff.
Both my wife and I had a great time. Folks who really want to be pampered can enjoy themselves at Cocobay, as can the quiet escapists like me. However, if you really want the Ritz Carlton treatment (room service, AC, TV, etc.), you probably won't like the Cocobay and there are plenty of other options for you. You'll really be missing out on something special, though.