A family of four (two eleven year old boys) we travelled in the third week of April. I'll focus on the tours and walks, and not repeat in any length what's already been said before about the place - just to say a wonderfully located kasbah, just 30 mins from the airport, about 900m above sea level, built with many Moroccan style features, rooms and ensuites comfortable and spacious. Nothing was too much trouble for the friendly owner and staff, and the food is of a good standard.
I was worried whether 5 nights might be pushing it too much in such isolation (we didn't hire a car - and I wouldn't recommend it except if you're an expert driver at dodgems), but in the end it was just right. Excursions can be arranged with a day's notice, or even less, as the English owner Paul has a number of guides he called upon to join us.
We arrived Saturday late afternoon: boys discovered the tortoises within minutes. First day: a 2 hour guided walk around the hills, with Mustafa. A great introduction to where we were staying. Second day, 6 hour excursion: a guided drive (about an hour) to Imlil, 1700m, a hub for mountain trekkers, and mule trek (about an hour) on up to a mountain berber village, Ahmed, 2,500m? then a picnic lunch in the muleteer's berber home, unexpectedly supplemented by a tagine provided by his wife. An extraordinary tiny glimpse of mountain life. However - one of my 11 year old boys was not keen on riding the mule (and whilst clearly very surefooted, it can be a little scary as the mules pitch steeply up and down the pathways) so he walked with the guide. The temp was 37 degrees, very hot, with little shade. He did not feel well or happy when we reached the top village. I would recommend (for any trip to Morocco from late April onwards) being better prepared than we were, by bringing those small water spray/misters with fans, which we didn't have with us this trip. And tho the kids wanted to wear baseball caps, I would definitely recommend all-round rimmed straw or panama style type hats. It could make a difference. Third day - short guided tour of the local souk at Tahanout (Tuesdays); astonishing - this is no Marrakech, with few tourists, so little of the harassment or interest in us; mainly locals from all around coming to do their shopping and selling: spices, utensils, cloths, chickens being bought, and 'prepared' there and then, dozens of barbers in their open tents, bakers, many open grills and tagine restaurants, where you bring your own food and they charge you to cook it, well over 200 mules or donkeys in the 'mule park' proof that the car has not yet overtaken this region for many people's transport. Then chill out recovery day by the pool, short unguided local walk early evening. Fourth day - again, the heat defeated us and we left the guided walk until 4pm, which turned out to be a good 'plan' as cloud cover built up during the day provided some respite from the heat. Again local, this time a different route, and the guide showed us how to tempt a scorpion to the mouth of its nest - the boys went nuts: 6 scorpion nests and 3 hours later we managed to get back in time for dinner. One of the highlights of the week! (they're poisonous by the way - the scorpions, not the boys - so caution needed). Five nights and we didn't do the day walk, the adventure park (thanks to the cautious child), and we could have ventured out more on our own too. The excursions added a fair bit to our bill but the charges are clear.
The serenity, the relaxed atmosphere and the stunning views meant that place felt great, the other guests were like family or friends: the vibe is beautiful. Any criticisms? Really quite small - one guide (Imlil day) didn't particularly draw the kids into his patter; the aubergines were quite bitter in one tagine, and if the swimming pool could be heated just a teeny bit - that would make Kasbah Angour unbeatable. Which it probably is anyway.
We then spent 2 nights in Marrakech - see part 2.