Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands near Dubrovnik. We approached Luka, one of its two villages, by small boat. The quiet harbour, dotted by palms and limestone houses and overlooked by a church, is impossibly pretty and we were urged by other sailors to try this restaurant. The waterside setting at sunset proved unforgettable - as did the food. We left the choice to the restaurant manager who returned with various starters: octopus burger, anchovies, prawns. For a main course, he brought the finest sea bass I have ever tasted. It had been simply grilled with a few herbs: fantastic. For accompaniment, a plate of potatoes, in texture somewhere between puree and crushed, flavoured with garlic, oil and courgette. Our crew fell upon this dish - and when we left the manager gave us more to take to the boat. All this was enjoyed with well-made Croatian wines.
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